WELD 17" RT-S wheels/Hoosier slicks bolted on--tips and tricks
 

Finally got the 17" Welds and tires in the other day, and here are some quick pics. They look MUCH better in person I can tell you that!! Cant wait to get it to the track and see how the hood, hopefully this Friday night!!

This is the setup that I went with. 17x5 with a 2.2 rear spacing in the front, and 17x10 with a 7.2 rear spacing in the rear. The front tires are M&H 28x4.5x17, and the rear Hoosier slicks are 28x10x17.

After bolting them on the car, I got underneath and found out that you can actually go a little wider. If I had to do it again, I would do a 17x10.5 wide with the extra .5 on the outside. That would keep the wheels having the same look when looking down the side of the car. The rears now stick in just a little more than the fronts. Maybe that's a good thing when your spinning the tires in the water box and not throwing debris up on the rear quarters. The added benefit of having the rear wheels wider would have the rear wheel look and be just a little deeper than the fronts. Right now they have the same front depth, with the rear having another 5" of rear spacing. The fronts have 2.2" of rear spacing, while the rears have 7.2" of rear spacing. Time will tell!!!

UPDATE! Now that I have bolted the wheels and tires on the car, I can tell you there are a few issues to deal with. I had to find out the hard way, with installing, and removing the rear wheels sooooo many times to tell. Here are some of the issues I came in contact with....

1) I did not have to tie wrap the emergency brake cable for clearance.
2) The brake line hose is close to the wheel, but still has enough clearance
3) The Weld wheel clears the LCA with ease, but is VERY close to the sway bar bolt. I tried to tighten the bolt so the bottom poly grommet would flatten out more, but it did
not work. I installed 3 washers under the top nut, effectively making the bolt shorter, and tightened the nut, trying to flatten out the bottom grommet. Success. But I will still
grind the bolt head to give a little more clearance. It has already rubbed the wheel, causing a long 6" scratch on the inside of the wheel. Not bad, but I know its there!!!!
4) There is still a little more clearance on the inside with going with a wider, deeper wheel (another 1/2 inch)
5) There is plenty of clearance to go with a little deeper on the outside of the wheel, at least 1/2". A 10.5 wheel with 7.0 inches of rear spacing will work great!
6) I think the perfect width rear wheel would be a 17x11 with 7.5 inches of rear spacing. You might need a thin spacer behind the wheel for optimum clearance, but it would look
killer!!
7) Be careful where you have the wheel shop install the wheel weights for balancing. To far on the inside, and they hit the calipers. To far on the outside, and they hit the sway
bar bolt. Somewhere in the middle would be perfect.
8) ZERO issues with the Hoosier tires, they are SWEET!!!
9) ZERO issues with the front wheels and M&H tires. The drivers side wheel didn't need any weight to balance, while the passenger took only .75
10) The open end stainless lug nuts are also SWEET!!! I put them through the ringer, going on and off 15+ times, and they still look great. Just don't use a impact wrench.
11) Be very careful with the Weld wheel caps, as they are very thin, and will scratch and dent easily. Don't drop them!!

Cant think of anything else right now, but I am sure there will be more to come. Stay tuned......

Very nice..:clap:

Are your Welds 18"or 17", rear 10" wide and the front wheel is it narrow? I like your set up that is what I am looking to do but with black centers.

17 for the rear... Hoosiers don't come in 18

mlee is correct....17x10 rears & 17x5 fronts

The rear wheels measure 17x10 with 7.2" of rear spacing, while the fronts are 17x5 with 2.2" of rear spacing. Like I said before, if I were to do it again, I would get the rears 17x11 with 7.5" of rear spacing, which gives the outside of the wheel a little more depth, making it look deeper than the front wheels.

Anyone out there want to buy my rear 17x10's?? $900/pair??? Think I will try the 17x11's. Soon enough there will be more size rear tires available, and the 11" wide rear wheel will accommodate them a little easier.

Nice "Racy" look!

What were the part numbers for the Welds you got? Thanks in advance

Weld has a Camaro specific application guide on their web site. The part numbers are listed there.

Is that price with the tires? I'm more interested in the black wheels....but if it were a good enough "deal", I might be swayed!!! And is your statement above just a hopeful premonition, or do you actually have good intel from somewhere?

I wish they were black lol I would of traded you. Here is my 17x12s they fit nicely and hope it helps you see how they look if you go 17x11.

http://i42.tinypic.com/iqyob9.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/11vnyg5.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/mtm0m0.jpg

These look like 18 inch don't they?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....artnum=13R8DDR

The Hoosier that the OP has is a 28x10-17 Bias-Ply Drag "Slick". The 18" that you linked above is a Drag Radial. Two different ball games here. I think mlee was eluding to the fact that Hoosier (or no other manufacturer) has yet to make an 18" drag slick.