Nitrous Fail At The Track - Yep That's Me !!
 

This is not the kind of video I wanted to add to my channel but we show the dangerous reality of racing and show the good & the bad as well !!


https://youtu.be/1QxhOJDzn0g

Ouch! That sucks.

Serious question here but were you using Nitrous during the burnout? I don't know that I've seen anyone actually spray nitrous while doing their burnout. At least from the video to me it looks like you are back in the burnout box but maybe you weren't and you were already at the start line.

Sorry to see this happen. I know it's not going to be an inexpensive repair. Good luck with the rebuild.

Ouch... That hurt...

Yes, I had the nitrous on during the burnout and stomped on the throttle from idle. My nitrous controller activates at full throttle which is usually not a problem and I have used the nitrous quite a few times during a burnout but I usually have the rpms up, it seemed to help me purge really good in the past. I think for the future I'll not have the nitrous solenoids powered up during the burnout.

Dang...glad it wasn't worse.

Frank..... we basically have the same Zex kit. The difference in our fuel systems is you have a ZL1 fuel pump, and I have the stock one. The stock fuel pump produces I believe around 58 psi, the ZL1 I believe produces 65 psi.

So you basically flashed the converter from idle with the line lock engaged to do a burnout. This is really no different than how I launch my car after the light drops, I do my burnout, turn the nitrous switch on, purge, then stage, and flash the converter when launching, I don't have line lock engaged of course. My car does get a higher RPM on launch from the 3200 stall.

The explosion obviously came out the cold air intake from the video....so gas somehow pooled up in the intake tube before you floored the gas to burnout with the line lock engaged. The Zex solenoid, which meters the fuel and nitrous is designed for the standard PSI from the stock fuel pump.

I think (not sure) that the higher PSI from the ZL1 fuel pump was more than the Zex solenoid box could handle since it's designed for 58 psi. Just a guess but it makes sense to me.

I'm glad you are OK and no one was hurt.

He Joe by flashing the converter do you mean you leave off idle?

Yes...no footbrake.....I found I get the best 60' that way, if it hooks up. Just floor it and go, also called "flashing" the converter.

Thanks Joe I will have to try it...I footbrake it and get 1.8 sixties But Im hoping for a tenth or 2 better.

When I was not using nitrous, I was able to get low 1.7X 60' times flashing the converter. I never got better than a 1.8X foot braking it. This is with a Circle D 3200 TC. It flashes to 3300 rpm, but with a footbrake, I can only get to around 2600 rpm before the car overrides the rear brakes.

Be advised though, the stock rear end on our cars is definitely not designed for hard launches. If you haven't already, I'd upgrade the toe links and trailing arms at the very least.

After nitrous, I am able to cut 1.5X 60' times, and I upgraded the stock posi with an Eaton True-trac and still broke a CV joint on a stock rear axle. DSS 1000HP axles are going in now. I just hope the stock driveshaft doesn't go next, but if it does I'll upgrade it too.

Eventually you will wear out the stock clutch packs in the differential, and your car will do 1 wheel burnouts, you can either get an upgraded clutch pack kit for around $200 or a True-trac for $600. I went with the TT because it has no clutch packs to wear out and it's good up to 1000 hp, about double what my car makes now. The car launches dead straight with the TT.

I also aired up the front tires to 45 psi instead of the normal 34-35 psi I use on the street in the 20" front tires after the 3200 stall was put in. This helped the car to squat better and hook up more consistently on the launch.

I'm just curious how Frank's gas ended up pooling in the cold air intake tube causing the explosion out of the filter, it obviously didn't damage the car too bad, as he stated he patched it up, and then proceeded to run the best time the car has ever ran.

The main thing though is that he is OK and no one got hurt.:thumbup:

Hey Joe, if I was you I would look at changing the diff, axles, and driveshaft at the same time.
I did DSS axles first because it was the cheaper way to go.
Then broke the diff and driveshaft on a really good hook up with 18"drag radials.
Ended up putting in a complete ZL1 driveline kit in, and sold the axles as used.
Wish I had of done the whole thing in the first place in the end.
The DSS axles that I had for the SS diff would not work with any of my diff options.

Yes, I would have done that if I had the $$ to do it all at once. I changed out the stock spider gear/clutch pack differential with an Eaton True-Trac. I hoped the axles would hold from the toe/link trailing arm upgrade, but they didn't. So now the DSS are being put in. The only thing still stock is the driveshaft.

I don't want to jack Frank's thread though talking about the rear end, I'm curious how the explosion happened.:threadjacked: :focus:

I have the same nitrous kit Frank uses, only I run 25 hp less. I flash my converter from the line, the same way he did in the burnout box when the explosion occurred in his car, he has the stock converter, I have a CD 3200. He has a ZL1 fuel pump, I have the stock one.

My guess is the Zex fuel solenoid couldn't handle the extra PSI from the ZL1 fuel pump, and pooled up gas in the cold air intake inlet tube.

I don't think that is the case Joe. Those solenoids can handle a lot of pressure. With your converter your rpms are probably higher before the throttle body opens completely and sends the signal to the solenoids. My stock converter will delay the rpms from rising as it starts to lock around 1000 rpms. I'm also still using the 125 HP fuel jet to restrict flow as I was running a bit fat at WOT. I have not had any issues foot braking at 1500 rpm and stomping it to the floor. If you look at your data log you can see at what rpm your throttle body is completely open and sends the signal to the ZEX control box.

I don't care what you guys talk about on here if you want to talk about gears or differentials that's cool with me.