New clutch advice
 

Within about 6 weeks I'll be installing a new boosted LSX427 with expectation of about 800rwhp. Currently, I was making about 680rwhp. and stock clutch started to fail, also experienced the pedal to the floor issue, and missed shifts with grinding issues.

In the market for a new clutch and of course there is McLeod RXT, SPEC Twin, RAM, ZRI (LPE, and a whole bunch of other names), problem is twin discs are better known for track, and single for street.

My understanding is single will behave much better on the street and last longer, while twin discs will handle on the track better but won't last long with stop n' go daily traffic.

Many vendors claim their twin disc clutches are now capable of dealing with the daily city traffic grind.

I'm going to need something really strong so reaching out to C5 members to see what they went with.

If you could share the following that would be great.

TQ / HP =
Brand / Model =
Disc # (1 or 2) =
Disc material (iron or other) =
Satisfaction =
Chatter (Y / N) =
Pedal feel (stock or harder) =
Engagement (low or high) =
(stock clutch doesn't engage until 3/4 of the way off the floor for example).

Much appreciated.

I think twin disc clutches are easier to daily drive than a heavy duty single disc. That being said, I just ordered the McLeod RXT.

You know I've heard this come up a few times. A lot of folks really like the McLeod RXT. How much TQ do you have currently?
Please, let me know how you like it once you get it.

Mainly stock right now, but I'm putting a Whipple on soon. I put the RST in my Trans Am. So far it's great. Very good manners.

McLeod RXT! FTW

Just installed mine and its super smooth and rate at more than 1000 hp

no chatter
super smooth
twin disc
softer than stock petal
engagement a little lower than stock
100% satisfaction

Single vs dual disc is one hell of a debate. I'll give you our two cents and we can go from there.

Dual discs are comprised of a flywheel - disc - floater - disc - pressure plate. The issues you run into with multi disc units are numerous. Yes, you can typically get more holding capacity out of less plate load, however, by stacking the discs you complicate things. Here's a list of pros and cons.



DUAL DISC PROS -

• Hold the same if not more with less plate load
• You can run a generic friction that costs less for you to produce and you make more profit and it will hold decent power.
• Typically less pedal effort.
• Typically more life.

DUAL DISC CONS -

• Less plate load translates to generic, often converted import, pressure plates.
• Gengeric frictions are just that. If you attempt to abuse them they will fail.
• Life can be dramatically reduced if even the slightest thing goes wrong or is out of spec.
• When you increase the coefficient by adding more aggressive material you build heat that can't be released other than through the floater. This can warp the floater causing disengagement issues, clutch pedal return issues, rapid wear issues, etc.
• Because friction materials cannot be as accurately cut as we like you often times have to shim the unit to get the correct install height. If you get it wrong the clutch may fail.

SINGLE DISC PROS -

• Simplicity.
• Due to the advances in friction material you no longer have to have a clutch so stiff you walk in circles.
• Longer life due to less complications.

SINGLE DISC CONS -

• If you don't adjust your driving habits to the clutch it will aggrevate you.
• Reduced life due to aggressive materials.
• Slightly stiffer pedal than stock (we don't believe in import pressure plates)
• Chatter can be present.
• Some high hp units can be an on/off swith.

The list can go on and on.

Don't get me wrong, we've got a few test twins and triples in the market as we speak. The only reason we haven't released a twin or triple is because we're simply not done with research. Could we have had a twin in the market a couple of years ago? Sure. The difference between us and most is that we will make certain that the Monster twins and triples will drop in and go. No shims, no measuring, no b.s.

Our singles on the other hand out perform most twins costing twice as much. Is there other twins out there that will outperform our singles, sure. But the cost is high. We've sold thousands to customers that are more than pleased with their performance. The issue with the internet is that a handful of guys complain about some things and you're judged on that as a company. The other thousands of people that are happy and don't post up get ignored. We understand this as a company, however, we've proven our singles in a big way and we'll continue to do so. Unfortunately the twin fad is hitting full force and we'll make a twin to suite it. If it were up to Steve we'd stick with simple singles that hold four digits.

Chris my stage 3 from you all rocks!!! Now if we can get someone kicking ass and building better master and slave cyl's i'll be happy.. I've got about 1200 miles on your stage 3 and its FANTASTIC.. little bit of chatter but who cares ;-)

Zach

Calbert,

When we first installed my clutch as part of the build, it took a little getting used to starting off, there was quite a bit of chatter if I didn't rev the motor a bit before coming off the floor, and it felt like it was grabbing a little even with it on the floor say sitting at a light... I got to throwing it into neutral all the time as I approcached lights...

We eventually pulled it when we were removing the tranny to address the synchronizer and shift fork issues.

We took pics of it and ended up sending it back to 'ACT, and they did some work on it... It seems to respond better, and the chatter has lessened with driving time, but when my builder pulled the transission this last time, he said the assembly looks a little worse for wear.. I'm going to try it for a while longer and then may have to consider other options...

I can say that I have never had any issues with it clamping, though traction has been a part of that... I feel like it has the potential to be a good clutch, but I'm not sure how long it will last...

I'm considering options as well, so I'll be following this thread...

Glad to hear you're enjoying it, thanks again for choosing a Monster!:headbang:

If a clutch isn't fully disengaging for whatever reason it will eventually tear up the synchros.

True, and I appreciate that info, but I was having synchro problems before the build... They just got substantially worse with the increased power... We now have carbon fiber synchros and the clutch is a decent ways off the floor before engaging...

Do you guys install and set up big hp rated clutches at your location, or are you strictly retail... I hoping someone does an adjustable clutch slave/master cylinder soon. The reason for the big hp question, is we are soon to up mine into the 1200 or so rwhp range... And 1250-1300 ft/lbs... Does monster make anything that isn't an on off switch clutch for this power level...

The above power will not be full time... It will only be for track showings and then back to my current power level for street driving... I realize I may be asking too much, but if I don't ask, I'll never know

New master and slave will make alot of happy customers.. Including myself. my car has sat in the driveway more than its been driven in the past 5-6 months due to these issues.

Mine seems to be ok for right now, but I'll be happier when there are better choices...good luck with your issues...let me know if you discover any hidden gems..

monster clutch
 

we have 644 rwhp on a S/C magason 2300, head work, cam, m-6 . we got a stage -3 clutch, it is awsome!!! glad we went the monster route. got a neat t-shirt too. had to pay for it tho. troubles over. flem in ohio