o2 sensor problem or more?
So - I did a header install about a week ago and I got around to doing some data logging for a tune. Bank 1 was running +14-18 and Bank 2 was all 0's for fuel trims.
For clarification I am running the old CF 2 piece Haltech intake and it has like 102+mm MAF sensor diameter area. Is this just a sensor issue? Another idea that has been thrown around is an exhaust leak? EDIT: Rear o2 sensors are removed and I have no FRONT o2 sensor DTCs. |
Exhaust leaks would be a good place to start looking. An O2 sensor generates a voltage signal based on the difference in oxygen content in the air in the exhaust and the air just outside the exhaust. The less of a difference you have, the leaner the computer thinks it's running. An exhaust leak in the right spot would put exhaust on the outside of the sensor, causing it to see very little difference. Thus tricking the computer into thinking it's running lean and it will try to compensate by adding fuel. Which will actually cause it to run rich.
An issue with the air intake or MAF should in theory cause an issue in both banks not just the one. |
I guess I'm just confused because the fuel trims on the one bank will NOT fluctuate from zero but at the same time I have no o2 DTCs so I have no clue if the sensor could also be fried/etc
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Any codes being thrown?
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Does bank 2 just stick at 0? Or does it bounce around between 0 and +1? Exhaust leak is a good place to start... like was said already. That's what I would be hoping for! |
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Yep. Weird. Can you log O2 voltage? I can't remember if it is my sct or bluetooth module that shows the raw sensor voltages.
Just try loosening the headers and retightening them. It took me a bunch of tries to get everything happy at the manifold/midpipe flange when i did HF cats. It was a PITA to get it to seal. |
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On another note - my STFTs do fluctuate. Does that not take o2 sensor readings into consideration? It literally is JUST my Bank 2 LTFTs that are stuck at 0 |
o2 sensor voltages
http://i44.tinypic.com/2wrqbk9.jpg I have some updates - did a very quick log of o2 sensor voltage and got some more trouble codes. P0140, P0141, P0160, P0161, and finally P0154 It definitely seems to be the passenger side cylinder bank http://www.obd-codes.com/p0154 It is weird though - it's like bank 2 is going into closed loop while bank 1 isn't? but the range for bank 2 (0.45 - 0.58V) seems too narrow based on the above information? I will try get another log in the middle of the day and at a better operating temp. |
I haven't looked those codes up, but that is an interesting graph. The one fluctuating rapidly looks like it should i think. The stft should bounce from lean to rich repeatedly. That's how they find stoich.
Check that bank 1 header! |
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This stuff has always been confusing as hell to me. I wish I knew more about how the system worked and what this all means.
It would have to be a decent size leak I'd think. I've had leaks that never messed with the fuel trims and sensors. I've also had them that did. |
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The first plan of action is just to make sure everything is tightened up to spec. If that doesn't work I will swap sides on the o2 sensors and see if I get the same sort of logs. I will report back later with the good/bad news!
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The first 4 codes are all rear o2 sensor codes as you probably know. The P0154 is likely where your problem lies. The O2 sensor should be switching between 0-1v. A quick way to see if the 02 sensor is working is to wait for it to enter closed loop, create a small vacuum leak and make sure the voltage drops to around .1 volt momentarily. Then fix that leak, blip the throttle a few times and watch the o2 voltage. Should rise to nearly .9v. If they don't do that then it's time to start looking at the sensors, wiring etc. If it does that and it's just not switching enough (about 15 times during a 10 second time frame when holding the engine at 2k rpm) it's time to replace the sensor.
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Well, it has been awhile but the car runs and I've got some of my other responsibilities out of my way, but I still haven't fixed the issue - I attached a new(different) datalog if anyone would mind taking a look - the diablo data viewer link is right here. I also included the O2 sensor voltages in the log...something is odd here and I think it is bank 2 more so than bank 1 that is throwing everything off.
http://www.diablosport.com/forum/vie...hp?f=31&t=2335 |
If you can, swap the sensors and see if the issue switches to the other bank.
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Looks like you're getting a little KR when you tip into the throttle too.
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You have two suggestions that I'd go look into when you get a chance. Do the header check and make sure there's no leaks or soot around the connections or off the cylinder head. Also make sure the o2 sensor is tight.
If that doesn't work, swap sensors out and then get back to us bud. |
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That would eliminate or find one problem source. |
Thanks for the advice guys, I have essentially done all the visual inspections for soot and I have found nothing around the heads - I will check to see if there is any around the sensors this weekend and if not I will just do the switch then.
For what it is worth it smells VERY rich on start up - occasionally bucks both after start up but then usually settles down with in 10-20 seconds and then also occasionally around town when I drive. However, when I get it back and turn it off it smells very lean. Other little tidbits - I am running one of the older two piece haltech intakes with the 102+mm MAF so bank 1 is reading high LTFT's because that's what I was told to expect (as opposed to some sort of exhaust leak) - the added headers probably isn't helping... |
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http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...4T-24T&eq=&Tp= here is the wiring diagram for the extender. The fact that the signal still oscillates though does that mean anything? If i just completely disconnected the sensor would it be any different? |
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Well...I found the culprit - I had a bent prong in the o2 sensor socket on the main harness, luckily it wasn't snapped off - I bent it back and the logs look completely different from what it was before. Thanks for the suggestions and help guys.
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Glad it's fixed!
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I'd definitely do the fuse pull so you can start fresh.
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Nicely done. Which one was it.. 1 or 2 so we can match that up to the logs?
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Yeah man. It's always nice to come to a solution on something that has been bugging you for a long time.
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