LLT Fuel Injectors
I've had all sorts of issues with my 2010 Camaro, one of those issues are somewhat random misfires. Cylinders 1 and 2 frequently misfire as well as 5 however less often.
These misfires occur MOST during low RPM and especially when the engine is under stress. Engine has around 120k miles on it. I've done the following so far: - searched and found no intake leaks - cleaned MAF, replaced MAF - quite a few replacement spark plugs - replaced 2 ignition coils on 1&2 - manually scrubbed carbon off intake valves (no catch can till ~100k miles) - dumped countless cans of seafoam in gas tank Not really sure what else to do. I have considered taking cylinder 1 & 2 injectors out and inspecting, however I've never done this before and don't have any torque specs or anything when I put things back together. Could anyone offer any suggestions? Or offer some insight into the injector removal/inspection/reinstall process? Thank you very much! |
Are you sure this isn't timing chain related? Has that been replaced yet? To go that long on this engine with no timing chain replacement or related engine codes would be surprising.
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Original timing chain was replaced around 60-70k. No timing chain codes present right now.
Really just P0300, 0301, 0302, 0305. Evap solenoid (cant remember off top of my head believe its P0430) Car has been in and out of dealership for lean codes p2179 and p2177 (maybe 3/4 months ago). Chevy insisted the issue was my airaid intake which they removed and called it a day. Although my LTFT's are still ridiculously high, they are not throwing the codes... Misfires were present then but by far less frequent. |
Im also dealing with a similar issue with cylinder 3&4 and I have yet to figure it out. I also have the airaid and some other mods but mine didnt start till after the ghost cam trifecta tune. Its only got 60,000kms and does the same thing at low rpm under stress(usually when getting on the highway). I have to pull over shutdown the car otherwise its lags very badly, I restart it and all is good. Is this what yours does as well? Hope you can figure it out. Im hoping they can solve mine when I go to get it tuned at the dyno this spring
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That a good amount of miles on your car there. May have to change out the injectors. Also check your coil wiring for wear on them or loose wire to the connector (just a guess).
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noisemaker:
does your engine light blink when that happens? Sometimes if my car idles for too long it gets really bad and the light blinks. Then the engine eventually disables cylinder 1 because its constantly misfiring. Then, after turning of and restarting the car is drivable again however still misfires semi randomly but mainly on those cylinders. Cant_c_me: I haven't done a great job testing wires to ignition coils. I have moved them around while engine running to see if I hit a spot where the engine misses more frequently but nothing changed. I remember reading about issues with corrosion near ecm connector. I do plan on disconnecting the battery and looking there to make sure there isn't any issues on that end. I could test wires running to coils, I just don't have the pinout for the ecm connectors. I would like to possibly replace the injectors on 1 & 2, just would like a little more insight into it and maybe torque specs. |
What spark plugs are you running? I tried the E3 plugs and they gave me a number of misfire problems usually on cylinders 1 and 5 but randomly others too but then I switched to NGK Iridium plugs and no issues. Depending what mods you have you may have a leak somewhere causing vacuum issues? Also have you noticed a trend relating any of your issues to where you buy your gas?
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I've had 4 of the 6 coil packs thingies replaced. They are the things that go into the engine to the spark plugs. Your plugs could be fouled at 120,000 miles I'd check those, it's probably not the fuel injector, it's a misfire. You can get the coil things on EBAY for $35.
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As far as the gas goes I haven't really noticed any difference between gas brands nor octane. Don't seem to have any improvement between regular/93 octane and such. |
Can anyone offer any procedures, torque specs, or other insight that may help me writ the fuel injector replacements?
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I've disconnected the fuel line and the bolts affixing the fuel rails to the engine. Can't seem to get them off the car though due to clearance issues.
Can anyone offer any insight to help me out? |
Is there any update on updating the injectors?
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If you ever get new injector and you want to throw these old ones away could you please courier 1 to me? Need to see how they fit on the alfa head design. The original 3.2 injectors for my alfa probably wont flow as much as the 3.6 injectors and i might need extra flow for future forced induction.
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the injector is not the limiting factor the HPFP will be
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Yes i know but the alfa has smaller injectors than the camaro. The hpfp is the same as the camaros though thats why i just need to see if the camaro injectors fit.
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Get a hold of the book. BTW the engine I was working on was out of the car. In the car will be even more difficult. Pay attention to the high pressure lines and the fuel regulator connection on the back of the block. Good luck, Rich |
Can anyone provide some recommendations? I might have faulty injectors on my 2010 Camaro V6...
Issue: During idle and driving I maintain around 18% on both bank 1 and 2 long term fuel trims, 0 to 3% on both bank 1 and 2 short term fuel trim, both upstream O2 sensors oscillate between 0.1 to 0.9V, fuel pressure stays between 40 psi to 75 psi. One think I did notice the long term fuel trim actually going up to 21% or a little higher on both banks while driving. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! |
I'd start a new post and include all your cars info mileage etc.....
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My misfires were VVT Solenoids.
Any time you replace: Spark plugs Coil Packs VVT Soleniods Fuel Injectors CAM Sensors Intake Pull fuse #5 and #20, and wait. Then plug them back in and do the idle relearn. Mine ran phenomenal after doing so. ECU was using learned values as parts wear, on NEW parts, so resetting the Keep Alive Memory took care of all that. The VVT solenoids are pulse width modulated, and they have a resistance to their coils. Well, replacing them with new ones, will change the movement of the new VVTs. Being new, they may open too far, or not enough. The OEM VVTs were around 8-ohms, the new ones were as high as 10. So, they were not being controlled effectively. So, resetting it all, drastically changed the performance of the car. I thought it just did not like the new VVTs, but it was the parameters the ECU was using. It has to be reset. |
I dealt with this issue last week. i have a 2010 RS with 99800 miles (no mods), original owner. my check engine light came on at slow speeds, lost power, white smoke came out of the rear mufflers.
i have a friend who is a chevy mechanic at a local dealer. he scanned the vehicle (obd2) and told me injector #5 was bad. he recommended i replace all 6 injectors, 2 small metal fuel lines and a new gasket for the manifold plate cover. i didnt keep any injectors. i trashed them :facepalm: car runs great. all new parts are GM products. Cease |
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