MyLink Repaced with Kenwood & iDatalink (Updated)
 

{Updated - after going through this again, saw two things I didn't mention; they are in bold below}

The MyLink System in my 2013 Camaro SS went out and I decided to replace it and went with a Kenwood stereo and iDatalink interface. IMO, this system is a fantastic step up over the MyLink system; it not only looks OEM, it offers a lot more functionality, such as on-screen vehicle information and ODB code reader (and the ability to clear those that can be cleared).

I went through Cruchfield for all the components used and highly recommend them. Not only did they insure everything was included that I needed for installation in my specific vehicle, they provided great instructions on how to remove the old system and install the new. I also paid the extra $25 for their ‘Ready Harness’ service, which made the install almost plug and play.

New System Components:
Kenwood DNR476S
Antenna Adapter
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module
iDatalink KIT-CAM1 Dash and Wiring Kit

In addition to the great instructions provided by Crutchfield, I also found an excellent videos showing how to remove the old system and install the iDatalink system that I highly recommend reviewing before (and during) the new install: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkVO7Hb1NFw and Wiring Kit.

The installation went so smoothly and easily following the instructions provided and the videos I’ve listed, I didn’t stop and take a lot of pictures or document a lot of variations. As a result, I will only be noting a few helpful tips to help the install go even smoother:

1: Program the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module before you start the install, I did mine the night the system arrived. You will need internet access and a device with a USB port to accomplish this. The step-by-step instructions are great and make this very easy. I downloaded the setup app versus going through their website and had it programmed in less than 10 minutes. Depending on what options you have, you may want or need to program one or more of the 4 available buttons; I have heated seats, so, I programed the #1 and #4 buttons to operate them.

2: Remove the Center Console. You do not have to do this, but I highly recommend it. Although you can remove and replace the MyLink without removing this, I decided to follow the Maestro instructions and do so for three reasons: 1) It makes removing the MyLink bezel easier, 2) I have a Carbon Fiber kit on the center console and didn’t want to take a chance of damaging it and 3) it ensured I had plenty of work room and made it easier to run wires/cables where I wanted. Here are links to good videos that show how to remove the console that I really can’t add to much to.

Youtube DIY video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jP28s8uyjVI
Maestro video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4S3QmhywlI8

3: If you remove the center console and have electric seats, wait to disconnect the battery until after doing so. You will find it much easier to remove the console, especially the two side trim pieces if you are able to move the seats back and forth. One the console is out, disconnect the battery.

4: One thing not covered in any of the Crutchfield or iDatalink instructions is installing the GPS antenna and mic for your new head unit, you will need to do this or neither will work. Unless you luck out, the connector for the factory installed GPS will not fit your new head unit (mine didn't); the connection for the factory installed mic is part of the OEM harness, so you will need use the one that comes with your new unit. For the mic, I ran the wire under the dash and mounted the mic right on the steering wheel column (see 3rd to last picture). For the GPS antenna, you will need to find a place up under your dash where it can receive a signal, I found a nice spot above the fuse box on the driver's side of the dash (see 2nd to last picture).

5. My head unit only came with one USB port, so I hard wired the second one on the iDatalink to the car as a fulltime charge only USB port. I did this using a 12V - 5V converter, an 'add-a-fuse' connector from AutoZone and a 6' USB extension cable. I rand the cable up under the dash and connected into the fuss box on the driver's side of the dash. See the last picture for how I connected in.


Basically, that’s it, if you follow the instructions provided and watch the videos I’ve suggested, hopefully your install will go as smooth as mine. The key is taking your time, it took me about 6 hours with most of that time being the removal and reinstalling the center console, pausing and reviewing the videos and taking a few breaks. If anyone has any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask, either here or PM me.

(Note the JVC you see in the one picture I installed in my daughter's vehicle right after installing mine .. hers only took a little over an hour lol)

:happy0180:

I like it! Will definitely come back to this thread for reference when I replace mine. Great post.

Looks great!

very cool,this might come in handy someday.

Thanks everyone. One of my biggest concerns was keeping the steering wheel controls, as well as the HUD display functions .. everything worked as advertised. :happy0180:

That's pretty slick. I am torn between the PAK and that I think. I like the factory control knob retention but this is slick too. Could you take a picture pulled away showing more of the dash, more like the 3rd picture there?

Here you go. I really like the fact I now have a clear view of my lower gauges ..

Nice work!

I would sacrifice the knobs just for the added iDatalink functionality.

Thank you very much! That does loook nice.

I'm unsure how much that would actually matter for me. If I wanna see additional data I hook up HPT atm. I'm also not overly familiar with the iDatalink stuff so I'm not entirely sure what it actually has on board. Their website kinda reads like shit too lol.

Watch the first video in my first post, at the end they go over a lot of the features of the iDatalink. You have to listen closely, because they mix their review of some of the options of the radio they installed as well. :happy0180:

So how much is this upgrade?

$1K .. a couple hundred less then a new MyLink which cost $1.2K (at least that's the lowest price I've seen for the MyLink). :happy0180:

Well yeah, I get that. HPT will offer you tons more data than this ever could.

I run an Android head unit and have a bluetooth OB2 adapter so I can get all of the OB2 data displayed on my stereo, including the ability to datalog if needed via DashCommand or Torque. But displaying some of this through the iDatalink stereo is much cleaner, especially the Can Bus integration. That is what I miss with the Android unit. Plus mine is a bit buggy.