Different clutch option for y'all
 

So my throwout bearing decided to start making some grumpy sounds this past Saturday. Time to change the clutch, but I'm going a slightly different route. This option should be a good one for anyone with a stock SS or with bolt-ons.

Going with a stock LS7 clutch package from Luk and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. The flywheel is 13.5 lbs, pp and clutch disc I think weigh 32-33 pounds. Stock fw is 27 pounds I think so this gives a savings of 14 ish pounds bringing the total to around 43-45 pounds from 57-59. ARP hardware instead of GM stuff since it's an aftermarket fw.

This should allow the motor to spin faster and allow more power/torque to be transferred to the rear wheels. This is a good option since the clutch should engage and feel like stock but everything will happen a little quicker. Still stock friction material so it's not an on/off switch.

I'll post pics and weights once everything shows up and follow up with a review or two.

Got the car back today and it feels very different. I like it a lot so far and more importantly I haven't stalled! I will post pictures and a better review after I put more miles on the car. Initial thoughts: I can feel a difference in throttle response and through 1st - 3rd. The only negatives are a soft pedal (probably needs another bleed) and the catch point is close to the floor. It'll engage closer to the middle with more miles.

My slave cylinder failed completely. Completely broke lol when the shop separated the transmission from the engine the t/o bearing popped out. Old clutch looks great, very little wear and the flywheel has no hot spots. Bearing support also looks great

300 mile update: everything is great, shifting is fantastic, and i even think my mpg's are up a bit. that could be from taking it easy as i still haven't gone WOT yet...

anyway here is the flywheel i used, its weight, and all parts installed:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/...22319e68_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/...5fe68aa8_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1944/...878558db_b.jpg

Part numbers:
Luk clutch kit: 04-263
Fidanza flywheel: 198171
Tick Bearing support
Tick speed bleeder
ARP Pressure Plate hardware: 134-2201
ARP Flywheel hardware: 330-2802

and here is my original slave/throw out bearing (or whats left of it):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4890/...25da1fd3_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4892/...692b0517_b.jpg

not sure how a slave fails in such a fashion, but i'm not sure i needed to install the metal bearing support. original bearing support looks great for 82K miles.

i really think this is how the car should have come from the factory. the throttle response is improved tremendously, going through 1-4 gears feels so much smoother and takes less effort, and shifting feels more direct. pedal effort is the same as stock and i can still start in 2nd or even 3rd if i need to. yes, it takes a little more throttle to get moving but you get used to it very quickly. still haven't stalled either.

i made a slight change to start-up airflow and will be adjusting the throttle follower to help the engine come to idle smoother while coasting in neutral. beyond that everything is just as it was with the stock clutch/flywheel.

if anyone has questions let me know!

How much have you spent for the whole setup?

parts:
clutch kit: $270.57 shipped from RockAuto
flywheel: $410 shipped from Amazon
hardware: $59.97 shipped from Summit
Tick Performance parts: $140.43 shipped

total: 880.97

install: $728 and it may have been less if i shopped around but with the slave failing i didn't really have time or the option to do so. however, i will say steer clear of the dealerships. my local dealer wanted $1,300 for the install :faint:

so all in 1,608.97. now that i know the bearing support was fine and not melted i would skip the tick bearing support next time... and i really want to know how people melt them lol

500 mile update: finally went WOT and it feels quicker. i'm on snow tires and they don't grip at all so i don't have hard evidence saying its quicker unfortunately. but its very smooth up to redline and shifts beautifully.

seat of the pants says its a little quicker. i can tell the engine revs quicker and it responds to WOT better than before... i'll update when i put my summer tires on again in the spring!

Did you swap the Tick support or did your shop do it?

I did it and it's not difficult. But, I wouldn't bother in the future after seeing my original slave cylinder. I have no clue how anyone melts that support piece. The slave that was removed was the original and is 10 years/82k miles old. The original clutch was slipped to the point I didn't think it would come back on two occasions. Even after those times the flywheel had no hot spots and the original clutch looked like it could still be used. If I had known the original support piece was still intact, I would've saved myself 80 bucks since I honestly don't think it's necessary.

If you still want to do it: Use a wide flat head and apply pressure in a few different spots to avoid messing up the retaining ring. Doesn't take much force to remove either so be careful and go slowly.

Another reason why I would avoid it is because if you mess that ring up, as in it doesn't hold when you reassemble everything, you need a new slave cylinder.

I think it all depends on how you use the car like drag racing vs auto X vs road course. I have a like new slave cylinder so I kinda have a spare. Rather have it an not need vs need to rip it all apart an wish it was already installed.

You could be onto something there with the intended use. I still say you're better off without it. IMO, if you're putting enough heat into the clutch to melt that support piece you might have other issues like a slipping clutch or bad driving habits (riding the clutch, too much slipping between shifts, and holding it down at intersections).

Go for it if you think you need it!

Edit: if the car will be used for HPDE/auto-x most of the time I'd look into aftermarket slave cylinders

Great review!

Any clutch chatter at all? I’ve read where aluminum flywheels produce some noise because they’re lighter and spin faster.

Slightly more noise at idle but nothing crazy and you can only tell in the car. No clutch chatter that I've noticed as well, but it's only been 1500 miles so it could start doing it lol

An aluminum flywheel won't spin faster, it takes less effort TO spin. There will be more noise because the OEM flywheel is designed to reduce noise and vibration from the driveline and when you reduce weight you will sometimes get a little more noise. Not sure how the material affects things though

So is this a mod you would recommend? I have been thinking about doing it.