New 5th gen ZL1 owner in need of some help
 

What’s up guys, I was having some transmission problems and could use some advice if anyone wants to share some knowledge. My car started loosing power around 2500 rpms in 5-6th gear, for only a split second, and then it’d go back up. I didn’t think much of it at first, but then I got sent to the desert for around 8 months, and the car sat in storage. When I got back a couple months ago my car started getting worse and worse, and eventually wouldn’t even go into gear, I could also definitely smell the clutch burning up. So my first thought was a slipping clutch, therefor, I ordered a new one and started removing the trans (that sucked). But when I finally got the trans dropped today, the clutch was pretty worn, but didn’t look nearly bad enough to not even be going into gear anymore.

If anyone has any ideas of what this could be or if you think I should just continue with the clutch project please let me know. Next thought would be to swap the transmission, but wanted to ask for advice before I spend the 3-4 grand.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Was oil level proper? Were there any metal shavings/particles in there? How worn is the clutch?

These are the things you have to answer, else bring to a shop and have them answer.

I would guess that you had a worn clutch that was slipping before it set, and are having hydraulic issues with the clutch after it set keeping it from completely disengaging. You have the worst of both, a clutch that won't hold power and one that won't turn loose to shift. I would put in the new clutch, with a new pressure plate, throw out bearing/slave cylinder and bleed the system. If that doesn't work, you may have internal transmission problems, but a burning clutch smell means the clutch is slipping, either from being worn or partially engaged/disengaged.

Here are some pictures of the clutch, no shavings, oil has been good.

https://imgur.com/gallery/rjS0uEt

I'd replace those hydraulics while you are in there. If it were me, I'd put a new clutch in while you have everything apart. Then sell the old one to recoup some cost. But that's just how I'd attack it. You've really got to abuse these MG9 transmissions to f' them up. Are you at a really high power level?

I could look into the hydraulics, thanks. And no, only around 650 to the wheels.

Just to be clear, are you thinking a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, pedal assy.?

Show me a pic of the flywheel as one of those pics with the dime shows the pressure disc ( which has two inner and outer) as pretty burned, if the flywheel is as bad change it it’s a sign of excessive slipping. The clutch disc actually isn’t that bad, they are not that thick to begin with as it’s the material that makes them effective. I can send you pics of my old one and show you what worn really is.

The clutch system on this car has know issues with slave cylinder as they use a plastic spacer on the slave cylinder that with heavy slipping can melt. If it’s gone you won’t be able to get in gear.

When I redid mine I replaced with a monster billet, I also put on a one man speed bleeder from monster which allows me to bleed the clutch now in a matter of minutes since i run dot 4 fluid.

When putting the trans back in rotate the entire trans to the right 90 degrees, them engage the spline to the pilot bearing. Once you push the trans forward a few inches you can rotate it back 45 degrees and push it all the way in. It won’t clear the tunnel if you try to push it straight up and try to align with the pilot bearing.

Slave cylinder looks okay to me, can you see any issues?
https://imgur.com/gallery/JLoNTrC

The plastic piece I referenced in inside the boot. You need a small vacuum pump to test the slave cylinder. Dont over pump it beyond the engage point. Also where is the flywheel pic.