Caliper Bolts and Loctite
 

I understand that GM suggests replacing the caliper bolts each time you remove them.

I also understand the caliper bolts are TTY (torque to yield) and according to my chevy dealer service manager they at 30 ft. pounds + 90 degrees.

And I've read on the forums that GM puts some adhesive like Loctite on the threads of the new bolts.

All said I have the following questions for you.

1) Do you need to remove the bolts to change brake pads, the rotors, or both?
2) Do you replace your bolts or reuse your bolts?
3) If you reuse your bolts do you use RED or BLUE Loctite when you reside them?

Thanks,
CRT

PS - I've read a ton on the web on this but I'm chiefly interesting in what the C5 gang thinks, knows, and does.

On an SS, pull the wheel, pop out the 2 pins with punch. Pads slide out the top. To pull the rotor unbolt the caliper. The caliper mounting bolts(2/caliper) are torque to yield, meaning after they are torqued then clocked(stretched) up to their yield point, not past. They are designed as a one time use bolt! To reuse them you are risking using them past their yield(breaking) point! Yes, guys are reusing them with removable(blue/242) Loctite. The Loctite will NOT keep the bolt from failing( fully yielding)!The bolts are $3 each cover your a$$! Just imagine driving on a road course at 100+mph then hit your brakes for a 50mph corner and a caliper bolt fails!:yikes:

Rockrau: thanks for the write up. For what it's worth I ordered the bolts on Saturday! They are $30 from Chevy. Is there another place to order them?

Note: I want to swap rotors and pads 3-4x per year. Street/Track/Street/Track.

I just ordered 8 bolts for $30 from JDP. Some of the on line GM parts places sell them for under $3. For me it was a convience thing since I was ordering a brake duct kit from them.

Just got the same brake duct kit too. I was going to buy rotors from them along with the bolts but ended up buying from the dealership in town. Hopefully I didn't stealer robbed too badly. ;-)

Me too,I just ordered rotors from GMpartsgiant $76ea.

Caliper Bolts and Loctite
 

What's been stated previously pretty much. I'd also like to hear from some folks that have re-used those bolts with success as I'm powdercoating my calipers soon.

Brake pad change doesn't require any new bolts.
Rotor change "requires" new bolts.

I did the same as CRT and bought them from a local dealer when I got new rotors.

What did they charge for shipment?

$15 or $16 for the pair.

My GM guy says they reuse the bolts....:(

Oh I'm sure they do. I just want the successful procedure from a member here. I'd guess it's not that critical to use new ones but I also don't want to risk lives on a whim.

Ok, I am not a good example because of how much I change/service my brakes in a year. So I usually replace the bolts "at least" once a year when I rebuild the calipers. Otherwise I will use red loctite up to a few times a year before I replace them on their maintenance schedule, once a year during rebuild.

T.

I have mine apart for inspection, cleaning, and bleeding at least once a month during most of the warm months. I do not replace them although this winter I likely will after 2 years of a lot of racing. I use a little blue but not much.

I know I had read on the net that they are "torque to yield" bolts but looking at them they do not look like any TTY bolts I have seen. Typically they are designed with a specific cross section that will be the area that is to yield. That area will have a smaller diameter than the rest of the bolt. You also would not want the yield calculations to be in a threaded area as that would be much harder to get a consistent preload value compared to a smooth section. The caliper bolts look like a standard design bolt with a very short non-threaded section. The tightening process sounds like the "turn of the nut" method to spec the bolt preload. This is a more accurate method to create the desired bolt preload as bolt twist during torqueing is not a factor. I have only used this method when the correct bolt preload value is critical to the joint design. Usually I have used this method when the torque values are very high as a special torque wrench is not required, just a long cheater bar.

One way to test this is to measure the length of a new bolt and then install using the correct "30 lb and then 90deg". Then remove the bolt and measure the length. If it changes (longer) then the bolt yielded, no change in length confirms it did not yield.