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-   -   What Turbo timer will u recommend me? (

Lio Martinez 08-19-2013 12:16 AM

What Turbo timer will u recommend me?
For those with turbos who is using a turbo timer!?

What brand!? And us it really recommended even if the car has synthetic oil?

Got Any pictures if the place where the turbo timer was placed?

TCAT 08-19-2013 12:56 AM

I would go as far to say that it's a waste of money man. As long as you drive the car leisurely for 5-10 minutes after aggressive driving, the car has had plenty of time to go back to normal operating conditions especially when using superior synthetic oil and new age turbocharger systems. Spend money elsewhere ;).

Lio Martinez 08-19-2013 12:19 PM

Tcat thanks for the advice bro by the way how u been? What about a boost controller?

uniqueskillz 08-19-2013 12:24 PM

The‘re a wast of money to me as tcat stated. Just stay out of boost when your almost at your destination and you'll be fine.

TCAT 08-19-2013 12:30 PM

Any time man :). I've been good, just working a lot and still trying to have time for different hobbies that I enjoy. A cost effective, yet good turbo boost controller is the AEM Tru-Boost. The gauge can be placed in any pillar you'd like and it's small thankfully. However, the most reliable way of producing the boost you want is to change out the wastegate springs to the boost yiu desire and make sure the car is tuned for it. You won't even be messing around with the boost controller when you get it I bet. Some people think they are going to get crazy and have different maps to switch to, etc. I highly doubt it unless you have the car at the races all the time and have different tunes saved on handheld and then you can change the boost on a boost controller, but that usually just isn't going to happen. I literally got my boost controller because I trust the electronic ones more than manual controllers, and because the gauge also acts as a boost gauge to visually see what it is (which you also won't look at ever because you need to stare at the road). Haha

I wouldn't spend more money than you have to. If you are happy with the way the car feels now, leave it alone, and spend the money elswhere on the car. You'll look back and appreciate the savings. :D

Lio Martinez 08-19-2013 01:44 PM

Thanks any idea on what psi I can do on my car without having to do any extra internal engine block work like spring valves. Piston rings etc.... How much psi can I do? I want I put a JBA catless mid pipes and retune it I'm only running 5.5 psi

TCAT 08-19-2013 02:18 PM

Don't go beyond the 8-10psi range. To be honest, even if you went conservative, something STILL can blow up. It's a crap shoot with forced induction, but at least you'll have less chance of negative things occurring at lower boost levels.

Lio Martinez 08-19-2013 03:38 PM

Tcat will 7 psi be considered a safe zone?

TCAT 08-19-2013 03:49 PM

Perfectly fine man. ;)

jordan 572 08-19-2013 06:56 PM

7 pounds will work but to get a really accurate rating you need a zrl map and software to log it. Otherwise you can't be perfectly sure what your running. To get a proper custom tune youll need to log it anyway so you should just do it from the start imo.

Lio Martinez 08-19-2013 07:56 PM

I'm asking because I have the Turnonetics T76 kit. I'm running 5.5 psi and making 509 RWHP

I have a set of JBA catless mid pipes . I wanna put them increase boost to 7psi and retune it

caper 08-20-2013 08:24 AM

lio, you and I are in the same position at the same time. I just got my car back. I was going to go with the AEM too, but I was wondering what the tune does to cope with the extra boost...seems tcat answered that (nothing), but how does that make sense , wouldn't the car go lean under more boost without added fuel?

btw I also have a BAP I am going to put in when I am retuned, but you have the ZL1 pump, so I assume you are set there. im also going to install my catch can soon too. and HEX vents to get rid of that heat!

TCAT 08-20-2013 09:03 AM

Ideally, anytime you increase boost, it's a good idea to have the car retuned to the new boost levels, especially to ensure optimal running conditions. If the computer is not tuned to deal with the new boost pressure, it still tries to compensate, but not as ideal as if you have a tuner adjust it optimally under load for the new conditions. Many people put a new pulley on the ZL1 and make a lot more power, and never touched the tune, but it's not as optimal as actually tuning for the new conditions. Obviously, with a turbocharger, boost is not increased through a pulley because it's not belt driven so to speak. So, back to the turbocharger and AEM take full advantage of the controller, you would really have multiple tunes made for you at various boost levels you want to run, as well as how you want the car to run in certain situations like 1/4 mile, autocross, street driving, etc. So, you would have tunes saved on a handheld programmer, upload it to the cars computer via OBDII port, and adjust the turbo controller to the boost level that correlated to that tune. The Tru-Boost doesn't have a feature where you just toggle through buttons selecting "Boost- 8psi", or anything like that unfortunately. The boost is increased or decreased by "Duty Cycle" on the gauge, which your tuner will use while tuning. AEM explains Duty Cycle as simply a comparison of the devices on time versus its off time. For example, a duty cycle of 50% inputted on the device means the device is on half the time, and off half the time. A duty cycle of 10% means the device is on 10% of the time, and off 90% of the time. The Tru-Boost solenoid is pulsed to control the pressure going to the wastegate. A higher duty cycle means an increase in boost pressure.

So, with that said, having multiple tunes for various situations and adjusting boost on the gauge gets damn expensive because you'll pay for each new tune, and is usually too much work for most people unless they race a ton. I purchased the AEM Tru-Boost controller because I simply wanted to increase boost electronically without having to change out the wastegate springs to a higher spring pressure (even though this is the most reliable way). Your boost would be what spring pressure are in your wastegates currently, and then the boost controller increases additional boost from there with it's duty cycle operation electronically. I simply have no need to change boost pressure all the time, LOL. Just tune the car to a safe, yet fun boost level, and keep it there regardless. Then, adjust your driving habits from there. :);)

Also, don't skimp on your fuel system. Either go with Dual fuel pumps or the ZL1 pump with ADM's alteration, as well as large enough GOOD injectors to hold up to the power you demand without overstressing them (like Injector Dynamics, who actually has the data to input while tuning. That's huge right there for optimal functionality). If you plan to not increase the injector size and/or the fuel pump(s), be very careful how much you increase boost. You'll be playing with fire, and when something breaks, so will your heart and your wallet.

Lio Martinez 08-20-2013 01:43 PM

Does $725 sounds fair for installation of mid pipes and retune?

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