Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiver11
So I got the slots made. The castor locks basically give you two static positions that you can use. I will probably take the castor bolts & camber bolt with me just in case I can’t get enough adjustment with the locks.
When grinding the slots I ran into an issue with my dremel and made one side slightly taller than anticipated. My radius arm can now move up and down (slightly) with the locks in place but not tightened down. Question I have is, when I torque the radius arm down, will those locks/bolts ever move on me under load? The play in the arm is probably a 1/4” at most.
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Yes. They will move when subjected with an abnormal amount of force on the axis of the free movement. Just like everything with slack in the suspension. Would I still run it? Yes. You could tack weld the lock plates in place if you are concerned with the movement. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes for an exhaust shop if they don't mind the liability.
Every S13 I've owned had the tension rod mounts settled fully back due to the repeated stress on the components. This is relative to the stock clearance around the hardware, maybe 1/16" at most. Either way, upon doing my first alignment to the cars I would always pull them forward and RE TORQUE to spec, and they would hold position until the cars hit an exceptionally nasty pot hole or a curb then they'd be back at the rear of the "slack" again. Basically, if you hit something hard enough to need or want an alignment inspection, the bolts will shift. I've aligned my personal cars too many times to count.
Now being that the slack is vertical and the stress on the radius rod is primarily horizontal, I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Tack weld the locks or run it and check after you hit something. You can also use marking paint pens to verify if it shifts.
