Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayjellyfish212
The place I got them from was on eBay, but you can go right to their website also... www.custombilletbuttons.com for the switches. 
For the switches i ordered the line lock one was to replace the cheaper rocker master switch with no led light on it that my line lock kit came with. Figured this one since I was ordering the other 3 I need now, will be a nice upgrade over the cheap plain rocker master switch the Hurst kit came with. For the POW POW one, that will be a master switch and safety switch for the main power feed to the launch controller ( clutch tamer slipper/ stov-004) & (also for the Ctap). The launch control switch is a momentary switch and the 2step is a latching switch ( always left on at the track or when in use) that when momentary is pushed will arm both the stove & ctap. Basically the set up will allow the powpow switch to power feed on or off as a kill switch if the system momentary is armed ( wont do anything if momentary is not armed) . The momentary switch once pushed will trigger power to the 2 step switch & also 2 relays that will keep the power on to the stov and ctap until the stov MPH setting signals a pulse sending current to trigger the relays that will just kill the stove and the ctap. Once the stov triggers the shut off, the devices can not be armed again at all until you push the momentary switch again. Took a lot of reading an figuring out but I finally figured it out. To figure it out I did some on the bench testing and all worked great. Hopefully the stov controller will do exactly what i am hoping it will do so all goes to plan. Bench testing worked perfect so I moved onto actually installing everything now in the car.
I am going to order 2 small custom indicator lights for the launch control and 2step so i can quickly see them when on and when off by putting them in a more line of site without looking down etc. My original plan was to put the switches ( 3 of them) in that small dash trim panel to the left of the steering wheel but decided it was going to be too much work and I'd need to make a custom new dash trim there if i went with my original switch location I had planned. So I put the switches down in my custom cup holder cover and will just add 2 custom indicator lights ( mini green lights for all systems a go!) in that small dash trim area instead since I know I can fit 2 small indicators in there without to much trouble. |
That's some pretty advanced wiring. I hadn't thought to include a momentary switch. The way you have it it safer than what I'm running. I've got a simple power on/off switch for everything so technically if I forget to turn it off after the run I'll go back into launch mode when picking up my time slip. LOL
[QUOTE=Jayjellyfish212;10763680]All done and almost ready to test it out. Just gotta hook my laptop on the car and set the pulse wire on from the ECM to the Stov controller and should be set. I was able to wire it all up so the launch pedal tamer controller stuff and the ctap and 2step all get triggered off completely once the set MPH is reached. I’ll start at 10MPH and see if that is enough time and mph for everything to do it’s job and shut off before I shift to second gear.
I've got mine set at 10mph as well. I'll need some real seat time to know if that's appropriate but cool to see that's where you started as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayjellyfish212
Ended up finalizing everything and getting the tuning stuff done today! I was able to test everything out and it all worked out great 👍. I made 5 test on the car to see if the stov controller would shut off everything as I wired it for and it worked perfectly. Everything on each 5 tests shut off at 17mph with the controller. All first gear only systems including the 2step off at 17mph and can not trigger back on unless I push the launch control momentary button again which certainly when making passes I won’t be doing. This has been a fun project and I’m looking forward to trying it out at the track soon.
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Hmm, so do you still have the STOV set at 10pmh? Is it getting into the hysteresis causing it to not actually activate till 17mph or is there perhaps a disconnect between what the dash speedo sees through the CAN-BUS and what the VSS is sending to the STOV?
Sorry I haven't been in this thread for a while. If you had a chance to see my other thread you'll see I've been a little busy with something far less fun....
