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Old 08-04-2020, 11:12 PM   #8
ZMEnow

 
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,662
Quote:
Originally Posted by blvckZL1 View Post
What’s up guys, I was having some transmission problems and could use some advice if anyone wants to share some knowledge. My car started loosing power around 2500 rpms in 5-6th gear, for only a split second, and then it’d go back up. I didn’t think much of it at first, but then I got sent to the desert for around 8 months, and the car sat in storage. When I got back a couple months ago my car started getting worse and worse, and eventually wouldn’t even go into gear, I could also definitely smell the clutch burning up. So my first thought was a slipping clutch, therefor, I ordered a new one and started removing the trans (that sucked). But when I finally got the trans dropped today, the clutch was pretty worn, but didn’t look nearly bad enough to not even be going into gear anymore.

If anyone has any ideas of what this could be or if you think I should just continue with the clutch project please let me know. Next thought would be to swap the transmission, but wanted to ask for advice before I spend the 3-4 grand.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Show me a pic of the flywheel as one of those pics with the dime shows the pressure disc ( which has two inner and outer) as pretty burned, if the flywheel is as bad change it it’s a sign of excessive slipping. The clutch disc actually isn’t that bad, they are not that thick to begin with as it’s the material that makes them effective. I can send you pics of my old one and show you what worn really is.

The clutch system on this car has know issues with slave cylinder as they use a plastic spacer on the slave cylinder that with heavy slipping can melt. If it’s gone you won’t be able to get in gear.

When I redid mine I replaced with a monster billet, I also put on a one man speed bleeder from monster which allows me to bleed the clutch now in a matter of minutes since i run dot 4 fluid.

When putting the trans back in rotate the entire trans to the right 90 degrees, them engage the spline to the pilot bearing. Once you push the trans forward a few inches you can rotate it back 45 degrees and push it all the way in. It won’t clear the tunnel if you try to push it straight up and try to align with the pilot bearing.
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