There are a couple things that will help. You've already identified the biggest problem - and that's finding "the edge" of the friction zone. The pedal travel in a gen5 Camaro is LONG, and the second half of it is largely dead and useless. A clutch pedal stop to limit downward travel to the minimum amount required to fully release the clutch goes a long ways to helping this problem. With a clutch stop, once you begin to move out of the "fully depressed" position you're getting right into the friction zone without a large dead zone of travel. That alone can go a long way to helping consistency.
A clutch stop can be a challenge because if the travel is short enough, you may not be able to travel the clutch position sensor far enough to tell the ECM you have the pedal depressed and to allow the engine to crank. There is a clutch position learn in HPTuners that kinda sorta sometimes works, or you can just remove the clutch pedal/starting interlock and take the clutch pedal out of the equation completely. Keep in mind, the car can and will start in gear if you key the starter while in gear. I don't ever hand my keys to anyone else, so this is not a concern for me.
The other thing that goes a long way is using the e-brake to preload the driveline on launches. You're basically using the e-brake to hold the car still while you lightly drag the clutch. This benefits in two ways - you know you're right in the edge of the friction zone, and you also have all the "slack" out of the driveline, which dramatically helps reduce breakage and wheel hop. As you identified, this can be a problem if the two setup does not release in the correct place. This should be tunable if you're using a Lingenfelter C-Tap to translate the 0-5v clutch sensor signal to an on/off 12v signal for a two step.
I use a N2MB WOT box, which is able to interpret and set the 2 step release point anywhere in the clutch travel. I have the 2-step "release" just as I get into the middle of the friction zone, it take a little tuning to find that point, but with a good 2 step it's going to start to release as soon as the RPM drops at all from the clutch release and be instantly at full power.
I've got a launch video out on YouTube that goes into some of this. It's a little lengthy, but it may have some nuggets of information that you'd find valuable. With your power level, I think you're going to be doing a dance of power management with your right foot on top of modulating your left foot. Some power management strategies could really help you're launch too - timing or boost against either time or mph could be valuable in helping manage that power and bring it in at a rate the tires will handle.