Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMEnow
Yep NLS was great at stock HP, but higher HP seems to excessively wear the clutch and everything else behind it. Replacing the clutch on these by yourself makes you stop it.  |
Agree on the NLS have potential for carnage - been there done that! I've done some data logging and testing on this subject, and my finding is that the throttle foot, if managed correctly, is not a factor in shift time, it still comes down to what your clutch foot and hands do, and what your transmission will put up with for shift speed. Turbo cars are a different deal, but for NA and blown stuff, I think NLS isn't worth the trouble, and you can modulate you shift aggressiveness a lot better when you work your throttle foot alongside the clutch foot.
I can get my shifts down in the 150ms or less range, but the trans is not happy with that, and becomes inconsistent. If I relax them to about 250ms, they are very consistent. Giving up 0.4s of time accelerating with the more deliberate shifts definitely will hurt ET a little, and mph for sure. But, I don't get all that many opportunities to take the tree, and I hate aborted passes due to a missed shift - so I'm with you on erring on the side of cautious consistency.
I hope to have more opportunities to drag next season, and as it progresses I definitely will start to push the envelop on shift speed. I'm not sure I'm done tweaking on the clutch/hydraulic system/clutch stop either. I made some real gains on shift consistency and speed late last season (after my last track outing) by giving myself a little more clutch pedal travel than I thought I needed. I suspect that with dynamic racing conditions and running temps I need a little more travel on the clutch than I find I do when setting the clutch stop with the car cold and under static conditions in the shop.
This is what a slow NA car with a lot of gear looks like from inside (skip to 1:10 for the good stuff):