[OzzySS]

Got a 2013 SS/1LE, had the clutch master cylinder disintegrate enough after 20k miles that the clutch went to the floor earlier this summer and i barely made it home.
Decided to go ahead and replace a bunch of parts, wound up installing the following -
Tick adjustable billet CMC
Tick speed bleeder
New OEM slave cylinder with billet bearing support
Monster twin disc kevlar clutch to support the TT power

Finally at the point now where it's back together and bled (separate reservoir) and i took it for a short test around the block through all the gears until i made it home and couldn't get it into reverse, or back into first for a few moments. finally got it going forward again and parked nose in the garage. popped it apart to make sure i didn't swap solenoid plugs like i'd read about - didn't see how it would've been possible since my wiring literally doesn't reach long enough for that.

so now it's still on stands and i'm trying to adjust the clutch mc but the wheels are still spinning when i clutch in and let off the brake. is it just bc it's in the air? when i did the clutch install i worked with monster support to make sure my measurements were correct and i shimmed the slave to exactly 0.200", their max recommended. if i rev it in the air in neutral the wheels will start going so obviously there's not full disengagement. do i just need to wear things down a little?

guess my question is - can i drive it like this without breaking everything and expec that it'll "break in" or do i need to get all the way back in there and use the smaller shim (i used the middle one to get to .2" out of tick's shim pack). i've currently got the clutch adjusted to basically all the way out for longest throw and reverse doesn't have a problem there out of the few tests i've done now.