[TheBrightSide]

Hmm... so I figured that since I can regain pressure back with the clutch fluid reservoir open, I pumped the pedal like 30-50 times, and then cracked the slave cylinder bleeder to bleed the clutch pedal. It didn't use a lot of clutch fluid, so I barely topped it off; I'm merely bleeding just to let any excess air out.

I do hear something traveling through the line(s) as I start cracking the bleed valve loose with my small 8mm hex combo wrench. I put back on the cap to the clutch fluid reservoir and then pump the pedal about 30-40 times, and then crack the bleeder to bleed the slave cylinder once again. At this point, I re-open the fluid reservoir, top it off, pump the pedal 20-30 times; put the lid on, and then pump the pedal roughly 50-60 times.

Everything seems to be okay now, although I haven't taken it on an actual drive yet. I will update as I drive the car, as I never bled the clutch pedal since the day I got the car roughly a year ago... At times, I thought the pedal was getting a tad softer, but thought it was fine, since there was no loss of pedal pressure at all (from the very start of pedal travel).

Also, I had gotten a long close-ended 8/10 mm hex combo wrench, to use for the clutch slave cylinder; but the way the bleed valve is positioned, only a normal/small sized 8mm hex wrench (closed end recommended) would fit, facing TOP-down (it may differ per person). I only had barely enough travel to turn the wrench, but it was more than enough to bleed; although if I needed to turn the wrench any more, the 90-degree angle the wrench began to turn to, would start riding against the transmission bell-housing and stop. Such a PITA.... I made sure not to over-tighten the bleed valve, as this might make it harder in the future, and also mess up the spot that the wrench can be placed.