Quote:
Originally Posted by el ess A
If it ain't broke, don't break it. This is JMO.
That is a separate system. If your handle and cables and parking brakes are working like they should, there's no reason to change them. If you're doing your hydraulic side anyway, it won't hurt to inspect them for cracks, deterioration, problems. But if they're in good shape, no reason to replace them unless you just want to spend some $$.
If the rotors have not been trued on any of those brake pad replacements, you may want to at least think about doing that much. You can at least inspect them and check them.
IIRC, 32 mm is the new thickness of the front rotors. 30 mm is the discard thickness. 28 is new thickness of rear rotors, and 26 mm is the discard thickness. I thought they were marked somewhere on the rotors of this measurement. I could be wrong.
My rule of thumb on that is if they're within 1 mm of discard thickness, get new rotors. If not too wobbly, and greater than 1 mm of discard thickness, try truing first. Rule of thumb- turn rotors every other pad change. Unless terribly scored, etc.
Rockauto has the GM rotors for about 600 per complete front/rear set.
AC Delco p/n 177-1050 (GM#92245928) fronts and (GM#92245929) 177-1051 rears (super pricey).
If you really just have to have the parking shoes, they're GM p/n 92234842, but spending $70+ for them seems a bit excessive if you don't actually need them.
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Looks like I’ll probably just leave my hand brake alone then. Is the parking/hand brake that GM uses, any different from the typical, common self-adjusting hardware in most parking brake setups?
As for the brake rotors, I was debating running aftermarket, generic ones. People have told me that the OEM rotors were the best, as far as what comes factory on the Camaro V8 models. I’m definitely not planning to run the cheap drilled and slotted rotors, as I’m afraid those might generate stress cracks or start warping somehow..
I might just opt for some generic aftermarket, solid brake rotors; preferably ones that have a nice rust-proof coating. I was debating some AC Delco semi-metallic brake pads, but I’m not sure of the exact parts numbers; the factory P/N’s for the brake parts has been a confusing research process for me..
I’ve been tempted to run cheap brake rotors and pads; but even on eBay, a decent search will show that a full brake rotor and pad replacement (with the exception of caliper hardware, unless included), can easily run anywhere from ~$250-400+ (low to mid grade brake parts). Expensive stuff, like Hawk brake pads or Brembo brake pads and/or rotors, will easily run $150+ per pad set, and around ~$150+ per rotor(?)