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Old 08-08-2024, 11:24 AM   #7
Coz3z3
 
Drives: 2015 Z/28, 2015 1LE
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Nevada
Posts: 647
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
For sake of elimination, should I just replace the CMC as process of elimination? It helped last time, but also, the last time, it looks like pressure would hold for the bleed after a while, and then go out after a single 30-35 minute drive.

My current one gave out completely when I started bleeding it; not one ounce of extra pressure building up, and I bled out even more than I probably got back out of trying to build pressure up in it. I usually use the good ole’ “block of wood” method between my seat and the clutch pedal, since I have no vacuum pump and I have no one else to help me push and pump up the pedal (like hell).

If that fails AGAIN, or doesn’t work outright, then I’ll go ahead replace the slavr cylinder… Do I need anything to replace anything else, besides the really recommended clutch/flywheel, billet release bearing support, remote bleeder line, and some other parts?

I’m planning to take it to a shop bc of lack of better tools and a high enough lifting lift/jack. I’m sure prices range like hell nowadays, but is the process mainly just removing the trans/bell housing, trans lines, driveshaft, shifter linkage, trans crossmember, and some other parts?
That I'm not sure of. I replaced mine the first time because the pedal fell to the floor and what not. Then I replaced it again because the same thing. I track it and I believe the heat and stuff breaks the seals. I would go ahead and try to bleed it again, especially with a vacuum pump. I wouldn't replace it before doing that.
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