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Old 08-08-2024, 12:10 PM   #8
TheBrightSide
 
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT)
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by fz4k98 View Post
You mention there is a pressure feeling change. Does the pedal travel change as far as where it engages and disengages the clutch? I have chased several clutch issues over several years and it will act different depending on the issue.

Clutch master cylinder seal if bad will allow blow by when pushing on the pedal. This will soften the pressure and also cause the engagement point to change or lower.

Heat in the lines can cause the pedal pressure to feel softer and increase the distance the pedal travels through its engagement and disengagement points. Cold may be one third to two thirds of travel and hot may be on quarter to three quarter of travel between engage and disengage.

I would focus on all you can before the slave as it is much easier and cheaper than the slave. i went back to a new clutch master, new line and put a double thickness of heat resistant sleeve on the line from master to slave which made a big difference.

As far as bleeding, an extension line off the slave will allow you to bleed with one person and also allow you to use your foot on the pedal.

You mention heat but how does it relate to the engagement point and disengagement point of the pedal?

I was mentioning heat as a potential factor for maybe some sort of heatsoak-related issue(s). I noticed that it would make my clutch pedal has a very tiny amount of play at the top, but not necessarily dead pedal. I probably DID have air in the hydraulics or some other issue, since I somehow was able to remove the reservoir cap, pump the pedal, and get it to become solid again somehow (not normal, right?).

You also mentioned heat wrapping the (hard) clutch line? Would getting rid of the original factory hard clutch line and lower rubber line going to the slave cylinder, help any heatsoak issues? I believe Tick has an upgrade for that, which includes some different sized fittings on the ends.

I also did some research, and it looks like the clutch master cylinder on the manual V6 (RS) models also fit the manual V8 models? This might help me keep costs down… I might as well keep a spare CMC on the side at this rate… I was reading Corvette forums, and it looks like those guys are plagued with clutch issues as well, particularly with the slave and master cylinder…. I’m definitely not trying to keep this as an only car anymore, unless I have a spare car on the side, ready for emergencies.

Last edited by TheBrightSide; 08-08-2024 at 12:11 PM. Reason: Corrections
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