Quote:
Originally Posted by fz4k98
Over a couple years i tried aftermarket cmc and lines that were designed for the heat soak. Eventually i went back to all stock parts with high quality fluid and double wrapped the line from master to slave. The product i used was from heatshield products and called hot rod sleeve. For my situation, this gave best results.
The fluid is still susceptible to temperature swings as pedal is closer to floor on cold days but fine otherwise.
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Gotcha, so you went back to ALL factory parts? This is in regards to the clutch hydraulics I’m assuming. I’ve heard the same thing as well, especially from people who either opt for the Tick Performance or Ram adjustable CMC, and even the Ideal modified OEM CMC that was discontinued like 2-3 years ago. Guess OEM brand (AC Delco, GM, FTE, Sach) CMC’s are the best, huh…
I was gonna ask for reference, as it looks like the OEM CMC I removed from my 2010 SS, was a GM model, but branded through FTE (P/N: GM 92199594). I found an affordable AC Delco CMC, which I assumed was OEM as well, since it was also FTE branded (P/N: GM 92067134, AC Delco 174-1179). The GM CMC appears to be all black colored, while the AC Delco unit is pretty much identical, except with an opaque-colored plunger/shaft.
I can’t tell if the CMC was ever replaced on my car, but I possibly think so, due to a wonky, wrong sized washer someone placed on one of the CMC bolts, where it mounts to the clutch pedal assembly/bracket/mount. I guess in that case, it’s gone through at least 1 GM CMC, and 1 AC Delco CMC so far. I ordered the same exact one again, and it’s worked good since last night.
Only concern is that after engine temps go up to 220+ F and the ambient temp is like 90+ F, the very top of the clutch pedal gets barely soft, but not enough to actually generate dead pedal (maybe around ~1/8-1/4” of play at most). I opened the reservoir cap and pumped the pedal like 5 times with the car off, after driving, and it came back to a fully solid pedal. Was okay on the 30+ min drive to work, but got the little softness back during the 30+ drive home in the hot evening today. I’ll check to see if the pedal will get solid again after it cools down, and w/o having to pump the pedal with the reservoir open. How do the clutch pedal hydraulics act in super cold weather (sub-30 F weather?)?
I was planning to get one of the aftermarket stainless steel, braided clutch lines. There’s some going for around $75-80, and then the Tick one going for $100-140; only difference is that the Tick clutch line, has a 90-degree fitting on one end (which idk goes to either the CSC or CMC; preference maybe?). The Tick one has the rubber-coated thermal wrap, similar to what’s around most oxygen sensor wires. I still plan on doing what you recommended, and getting either some fiberglass or titanium based heat-resistant wrap/tubing. I actually bought about 4-5’ for my aftermarket oil cooler lines, so this should probably be relatively easy to do.