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You technically “can”, but it’s not even worth doing. What exactly are you trying to do? Remove the stock, factory cast iron headers/manifolds, to install some long tube headers?
When I first installed my 1-3/4” BBK shorty headers, I used extensions and a flex joint, to reach down from above in the engine bay and remove the two nuts/studs holding the down pipes/cats to the headers. It made removing the cast iron headers a LOT easier, since the cast iron weighs a ton.
Technically, you could remove the whole 2-pc header/down pipe combo altogether, but it’s pretty heavy. I usually leave a jack stand underneath the down pipes, when I’m removing the header bolts that actually mount the manifolds to the engine heads. This helps hold it in place, and also help position it if you need to get to some harder to reach bolts.
I tried re-installing the cast iron headers altogether, with the down pipes installed onto them off the car; and boy, were they heavy and took me forever. I kept having to adjust the jack stands underneath the down pipes, to finally get all of the header bolts in place. Certain shorty headers, if you ever consider them, are kinda troublesome. Some have to run certain angled spark plug wires.
The BBK shorty headers I had, couldn’t use the L99 downpipes that had the flex pipes. The BBK shorty headers’ primary tubes were also too big and bent in a way, where you couldn’t use a stud and nut on the stock downpipes. You had to remove the studs and then run a shorter bolt from the top down. Or alternatively, you could run a M8 metric hex sized bolt and nut, where the bolt can fit through the exhaust manifold flange and down into the threaded stock downpipe exhaust flange. Such a hassle, and I eventually ran aftermarket high flow catted downpipes, where I was able to run the M10-1.5 nuts and bolts (but still had to install them upside down).
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