Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon Autosports
The Kenne Bell BAP wired AFTER the FPCM has been working on a customers' M6 SS that is daily driven and making over 700rwhp with the stock single fuel pump, stock lines, and F.A.S.T. 65lb injectors. Zero issues.
The BAP needs to be wired AFTER the FPCM. a Nitrous Outlet digital RPM activated window switch MUST BE USED or you will continue to blow the BAP in-line fuse because the BAP will continue to try to turn itself on using the low 6-7 volt input the FPCM is sending it at idle. Figure out where your boost comes in, what RPM the fuel pressure starts to drop under WOT, and set the window switch to TURN ON the BAP a few hundred RPM before that and the fuel pressure will never drop and you will no longer blow fuses. With this wired correctly, the BAP WILL NOT turn on under idle or normal driving conditions until you go WOT and the desired RPM is reached to turn on the BAP. You will see a rich "spike" in AFR while tuning but if whoever is tuning knows what they are doing, they can smooth this out.
Search "Icon Autosports" on YouTube and you will see the silver 2010 SS I am speaking of.
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Icon, I hope this setup continues to work with no problems because I would like to set mine up this way. When I wired my BAP after the FPCM I had it triggered on all the time, I did not try the window switch method you advised. . . Please keep us posted, Thanks