Decided to install bushings myself, so here's some tips and lessons learned........
1) The bushings can't be pressed out.... definitely "one use bushings" (even Pfadt drilled the stock ones out)
2) Differential has to be removed, 1st attempted on car with home engineered bushing press tool (NOT POSSIBLE IMO....not enough edges)
3) After drilling out rubber core, cutting 2 partial grooves in remaining sleeve aids in removal by using air hammer bit to peel up groove until it releases (yes... must use or take differential to someone who does for this part - MUCH EASIER)
4) New Pfadt bushings install easily with rubber mallot and special white synthetic grease needs to be applied to center anodized aluminum and reinstalled (grease not supplied, but ask for from Pfadt or Brandon at IPS Motorsports - I purchased full 14 oz tube from Spohn for $15 and $10 shipping)
5) Will also post torque specs later...... don't forget blue loctite for other suspension bolts and T-55 Torx attachment
6) Takes about 8-10 hrs if all tools available, and 1 hour/$60 at local 4x4 shop with my help for bushing removal (in retrospec - I had all the air tools to do myself already but pressed for time)
FACTORY BUSHINGS DEFINITLEY HAVE LOTS OF MOVEMENT! Pfadt's tightened everything up great with absolutely no negative side affects such as noise or vibration..... hooks up noticeably better, although I also had previously installed BMR trailing arms and road tested before this (Pfadt's look good, but BMR's seemed easier w/o the welding)
Excuse the readability..... 1st thread - still learning what works best!
Sooo..... 1st picture shows what I got myself into: