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Originally Posted by Thrillz
Sweet junkman your on our boards now. Some of the very best advice i have got for detailing is from the junkman. This guy has very high standards you can take his advice to the bank. All this guy does is help out people from his video's to countless posts and never asks anything in return. But if you ever see him at a show rumour has it he loves hot wings,beer and hamburgers ;o) Again welcome to the boards keep up the great advice  |
Glad to be of service sir and yes, I work for food!
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Originally Posted by cdn2usa
It looks like you did not wait long enough for your paint to cure, you should have waited at least 7 days if the temperature average was 70 degrees.
What grit to you use ? I use 1500 to 2000 and very very wet. If after doing so to get the paint level you see a difference between new and old you will never buff it out so that the end result is invisible.
To buff it out you need to work your way from cutting compound to fine swirl remover. I have always done it by hand, never by machine. It is much too easy to cut through the OEM paint.
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Originally Posted by THUMPER20X
Quick hit with 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and then a Farecla G3 then G10 and then swirl remover and no wax because of the clear bra going on. I would fix it for FREE if you were close to Toronto. I do stuff like this all day long. There are lots of different opinions and techniques. There is only 1 or 2 proper ways. Id have that in and out in under 20 mins. I just did a Infiniti G35 that someone tried to remover tar sap with a potscrubber. The owner when he picked it up at the dealer swore that it had to have been repainted. Anywayz you need to take it to someone thats not just a detailer you need someone that does this all the time. I dont know whats around you all I know is its not really as bad as it looks. Not to me anywayz.
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You guys are totally missing the point that you are giving this advice to someone who has never done this. To him and any other novice who reads and decides to do this, you have just doomed their paint job. You can't explain this process in a small blurb of a paragraph. To a person who has no idea of what you speak, this is totally Greek. Look at what you are suggesting he do and tell me that you would let a total novice do this to YOUR car without further instruction from you. That is the sign of some good advice.
1200 grit paper
cuts like a knife in the hands of a novice. That's why I have a novice start with 2500 grit. Hopefully, they will either get tired of sanding or just diminish the damage enough that it can't be seen BEFORE they actually burn through the clear coat and paint. It is a much safer alternative than having them start grinding on their paint with some 1200 grit paper and be looking at white spot in a mater of minutes. Now they need a paint job and you can bet that you are no longer their BFF!
Although we can do it this way, this is advice I wouldn't give a novice. Furthermore, the damage he has doesn't remotely call for those aggressive grits. I could hit that damage with a polisher and the sanding marks would be gone in less than 5 minutes. That's why I think he could drop by a body shop and someone would walk out the bay doors with a buffer and a couple of seconds later say, "There you go!"