Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCool
Thanks CamaroSpike, this will keep me busy for a while and help me know what I should pinch my pennies for.
no problem. your main goal before modding (unless you can get the parts for free or next to nothing) is to get the car back in tip top shape. can you give me a list of when the oil, trans fluid, oxygen sensors, fuel pump, fuel filter were last changed?
Also, Seafoaming your car only applies to the engine and gas tank, right? You wouldn't seaform your tansmission or something of the sort?
yes, seafoaming is only for the oil and the fuel systems in the car
For awhile I was debating with myself if I should join or not, but now I'm glad I did. Some of this stuff I've been told before, but it's easy to forget sometimes. There's always something new to learn. 
Right now I'm looking for a distributor cap and rotor. Autozone wants $160 for a kit with both, and that's the cheapest I'm finding right now. Some other guy wanted $460, saying it was a kit too with both Cap and rotor. :( I'll probably go with autozone.
be careful with the cap and rotor kits. your best bet is getting a stock or remanufactured OEM opti from GM(which is expensive) or going onto ebay and buying one from "thepartsladi" brand new opti for around $250.00 however, if you are going thru the hassle of pulling the opti off to replace it, you should go ahead and replace the water pump as well. when the water pumps go out on these cars they have a weep hole on the bottom of them that drips onto the opti and can cause it to fail.
It had a few problems that we have cut in half now:
1.)It wouldn't downshift when you wanted to punch it after crusing, which we solved with a new computer.
2.)But it starts rough and idles bad, and starts to make a certain noise and shakes above 60 MPH or so. So we think it's that.
the computer wasnt the problem. the tune was/is the problem. do you know when the oxygen (o2) sensors were last changed? are you getting an SES light at all? chances are either the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or the o2's are worn and not functioning properly causing a rich fuel condition.
Thanks for the website CamaroSpike, it'll also be alot of fun doing some of the mods mentioned. |
also, dont buy into a lot of hype about certain parts and what not. ive been thru enough parts and people with my cars and those of friends that I know which things are a bs marketing scam and which ones you can trust.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCool
Oh, didn't catch the terminology.
Yea, I figured if you did you'd get a ticket. I bet it's probably best not to in a car w/ 200,XXX miles anyway...
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eh. as long as the vehicle is in good condition, you can burn them without worry. just dont stand on it for too long.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCool
Question:
I don't quite understand the gear ratio system that goes on with the differential. Do you want higher gears (4.10 I think) or lower gears (3.8 I think?)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman
You probably have 3.73s stock, which are highway gears. They are meant for optimal highway gas milage.
I have 4.10s.
The higher the number, the quicker you will accelerate, but you will have lower top end.
If you were to get something like 8.25s you could maybe do a wheelstand.
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8.25s you probably wouldnt be moving till you are at redline. lol
the rest is correct tho.
for gearing for 4th gen LT1s was 3.23s or 2.73s for the automatic and 3.42s or 3.73s for the manual.
check the codes in the glove box for a GU code
GU2 : AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
GU5 : AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 : AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP