After going back through the steps I took I realized that one turn on the pedestal bolts really on;y gives me 0.050 (0.047 to be exact) preload as danhr stated above each turn is 0.047 and I even got out my digital caliper and verified it. So to get to my 0.075 preload I would need 1.5 turns of the pedestal bolt. I went back and started from scratch and this time I torqued down a rocker on either side of the cylinder I was working with to make sure there was absolutely no play in the rocker seat bracket as before I only had it hand tightened down at the two far ends.
With the rocker seat firmly in place I went ahead and ran the zero lash at factory torque measurement and got 7.325 on the pushrod length checker, adding my 0.075 preload gave me a 7.400 inch pushrod length. I adjusted the length checker to 7.400 (6.800 base plus 12 turns), hand tightened down the pedestal bolt until there was zero lash, and them proceeded to get almost dead on 1.5 turns out of the pedestal bolt on all four of the rockers I checked which confirms the 0.075 preload added to the length checker.
This actually makes more sense because as I had said at the beginning of the thread, I had measured the base circle of the stock cam to be about 0.035 (0.033 to be exact) larger than the new cam and since the stock pushrods measure to 7.375 the 7.400 pushrod just about makes up for the base circle difference. Even though the actual stock preload that was in there before I tore everything apart is unknown, the measurements and results make a lot more sense now so I am more confident that 7.400 is the length I am going with.
Here is the video I did that shows the entire process I went through, you can enlarge it to 480p if it only starts out at 360p. I'll be including this video and probably a reference to this thread in the full cam swap write-up I'll be doing in a couple of weeks (once my pushrods and trunion upgrade kit show up and I can finish)...