May 2011 Engine Cover Project:
1: Ok so to start I removed the heat insulator on the back of the cover and then thoroughly washed and degreased the engine cover. I then marked out the areas of the cover I wanted to cut out with a silver sharpy. I then drilled a number of holes just within the border of my marked areas (so I could get my jigsaw in) I then used the jugsaw to cut out the marked areas (taking care not to run over the lines) I then used some metal files to get down to my straight edges and finished off with sandpaper to smooth the edges down.
2. I bought the perforated aluminim sheet from Amazon.com (I'd never have thought I'd get it from them) cost was approx $20. I used some snips to cut my shapes out. I went with one large piece to cover both of the vertical cut outs and 1 smaller piece for the shaped horizontal.
3. I bought the Aqual blue LED Footwell strips from AAC - cost approx $30-40
4. I then contacted emblemspro.com and asked them if they could make me a V6 engine emblem with the RS symbol (I understand they can pretty much make anything - within reason
) cost $45.
5. Painting the cover was the killer for me, I had to do a lot of "re-do's". I went with the Krylon Fusion in gloss black as it needs no prep, but the number of coats, wet sanding and buffing I had to do to get it right (and I'd say it is only about 80-90% right but not enough to notice) I probably wouldn't use that stuff again, instead I'd probably go with some sort of plastic adhesion promoter and a black enamel.
6. I then bonded the aluminum with an epoxy glue.
7. I applied the LEDs with the sticky double side tape that is on the back of them and also added a few dabs of super glue for some extra bond (not sure what the heat of the engine will do to the 3M tape if anything). I wired each of the LEDs together and then clipped the positive wires to a SPST switch which I also bought from Amazon.com - (The switch comes with a small blue LED built into it which illuminates in the 'on' position). I then ran a ground wire from the "-" terminal of the switch and t-tapped the LEDs to it. I then ran the ground wire to the underside of the fuse box where there is an existing 'grounding point' (any grounding point will do). Then from the "+" power source of the switch I then connected the wire to a fuse using a female terminal one one of the fuse clips, from the remaining fuse clip I ran another wire (also connected with a female terminal) to the fuse box - when you lift the lid of the fuse box there is an existing power source (I loosened the nut and connected my positive wire and tightened the nut back up). The switch now gives full control of the LEDs even when the car is switched off. Also if I need to remove the engine cover then I just need to disconnect the female terminal from the fuse. As I type this I have just realized I havent got a method to disconnect the ground wire though so I will need to cut the ground and stick a female / male quick disconnect combo in the line.
8. The emblem comes with a much stronger bond on the back of it so just applied as is.
9. I also bought a polished stainless oil cap cover for $25 from here
http://www.getautoextras.com/Oil-Cap-V6-p/bc-161.htm
Hey presto - hope you like it, I know I do
