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Old 06-15-2011, 12:14 AM   #18
Fiftydriver

 
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Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS RJT L99
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
Posts: 1,242
Tadams72,

All I know for sure is that the diff is not making the popping noise. Now it may be caused by the posi being overly tight but whatever is popping is happening on the outer ends of the axles. This leaves either the trailing arms or the outer CV joints on the axles.

Will lube the trailing arm bushing and see what that does and go from there.

I am not yet in the relm of high performance with my set up, probably running a bit shy of 400 rwhp at most but I am building the rear end to get ready for some real power here in the next year or two. Plans are for a forged bottom 416 stroker, moderate boost Maggie for a preformance goal in the 650 to 700 rwhp range. Nothing EXTREME but certainly enough to justify the investment in the upgraded axles just for piece of mind.

I have a hard time believing that these 1400 hp rated axles would not be built with much better CV joint finish and fit which would help with "popping" under load. Maybe I am wrong on that but looking at the difference in finish of the factory and upgraded CV joint parts, it seems there is a DRAMATIC difference in fit and finish quality.

As far as the posi upgrade, from what I understand, the limited slip clutch springs are replaced with much heavier springs to hold more torque without slipping.

To be honest, this rear end is MUCH tighter then I was ever expecting it to be from what I was told about how the new rear end would handle street driving.

I would not mind the wheel slipping much at all because you only feel that if you happen to hit pavement with fine gravel on it or something similiar and then you just give it a bit of throttle and you do not even notice it.

Its the popping and snapping at low speed turns that really gets annoying and that I need to get rid of.

Its hard to know which way to go. You ask all the experts and some will say get new axles and that will solve the problem. Others say it will make no difference with new axles, some say its the trailing arms, others say its the posi unit.

I understand you have to pay to play but I am not overly fond of throwing money blindly to solve a problem. No problem spending money to solve or correct a problem but just throwing money blindly is hard to do. Just looking for a direction to go.

Also, you would be surpised at the lack of quality performance shops in the Great Falls area. Do you know of any good ones in the Billings area? Would be more then willing to take a road trip to get to a good shop that I had confidence in.

Thank,
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Fiftydriver

2010 SSRS, RJTC, L99, Maggie 2300 SC, 3.4" pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, Dynatech High Flow cats, Corsa Cat back exhaust, Dual Elite Engineering catch can, MSD wires and Jannetty custom tune, JRE custom diff w/ posi mod, 3.91 LPE gears, Pfaht trailing arms, Pfaht trailing arm and Diff bushings, drop springs and sport sway bars front and back, Fesler dual guage pillar pod w/ AM Cobalt Boost and A/F guages.

More to come!!
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