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Dyno's, good ones, should have a correction factor that is figured based on temp, barometric pressure, humidity, etc. SAE and STD are two different methods of measuring power. That is the cause for the similar results after many upgrades, most likely. Did the shop give you the dyno file, not just the printout? If you have the actual dyno logged file you can download their software and change the SAE STD and get a better apples to apples comparison. IIRC SAE is typically around 2.6% less. Some tuners or shops selling parts that are quite as honest as they should be may show you a before using SAE and then an after showing STD to show larger gains on paper to make the customer think they got more. OR watch to make sure they do not override the weather inputs. ALWAYS demand the actual run files so you can use the dyno manufacturers software to analyize your real results.
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