PM me; We were discussing this today at my shop as we attempted this mod as well, you'll be interested in the analysis we did and comparison of charts.
The roots guys can't get their heads wrapped around this concept. Our centris never touch the engine so the heat doesn't transfer, and the air it sucks in is cooled before going into the engine. With lower compression as well (on a stroked / forged engine) we never have issues with IAT or knocking, no meth required.
You're right on the money man, I can tell you really do your research and ask alot of questions, I do the same so kudos to you.
Anyone, who would tell me at this poing anything about using ZL1 parts on my SS, I'm out the door, and further if they start tellimg me about replacing my pump and getting a BAP, I'd ask them for a refund on anything they've done on my vehicle and put it back the way it was.
ZL1 parts are just that, ZL1 parts. Anyone who plans on doing any work on their SS's or ZL1's to 600rwhp. will have to rip out their pump, injectors, and perhaps even the rails to get a proper fuel system in there for any real power. The ZL1 pump is great for a ZL1 because the ZL1 makes a mere 550 or something HP, so that pump is fine.
If anyone says you need a ZL1 pump and a BAP on your D-1SC setup with 65# injector you better run, and run fast, real fast dude. Why do I say this? Because, you might as well use the extra $400 (BAP budget), for a serious Livernois, ADM or Aeromotive pump.
As for suspension you're right on the money. SPI has Full Pedders on their shop Camaro, it's a really awesome kit. But, it's made for amazing performance on a road course, most people don't realize a drag setup is totally different than a road course setup. My understanding of drag racing is the front end-links do you more harm on the drag strip, should just disconnect them, most have no idea on that. The end-links make the suspension and steering amazingly tight and very responsive, that's great on a road course but probably no benefit if going in a straight line and most likely hinders the results because you want the front to rise up so the back pushes down to get that added grip to lunge the vehicle forward.
My understanding (I may not be 100% right here) is that for drag you need to focus on the rear of the car (bushings, tie rods) and strength of the parts (DS, axles, tranny, diff., gears based on the power level you have), but for hotlaps you need to focus on the overall suspension and brake handling which includes the bushing, springs, tie rods, end-links, sways, disks, calipers, pads and you want it all to be adjustable so you can compensate for various tracks. As for drag tracks one may be a little stickier or rougher, but really you're just going in a straight line so you want a good alignment and you want the back to squat (eliminate spin, and wheel hop) into the track (so probably softer springs too).