Quote:
Originally Posted by Macfolk
Did you just jack it up and remove the wheel each time? What paint worked for you? Pics?
This is driving me nuts.
Thanks!
Jason
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Sorry no pics.
Yes I jacked it up and removed one wheel at a time. You can do both if you want, probably from an efficiency standpoint makes more sense but I was just enjoying time with the car.
Here's a quick rundown of what it takes. I used silver caliper spray paint I bought at Autozone. Nothing special, seems to have held up for 7 months on the rears.
Summary:
1. Jack the car up.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the two caliper bolts (18mm)
4. Slide the caliper away from the rotor and secure it so it is not hanging on the brake line. (use a piece of wire or rope to tie it up to the strut)
5. Remove the torx screw on the face of the rotor hat (this holds the rotor to the wheel hub)
6. Slide the rotor out away from the wheel.
7. Using a small paint brush and liberally apply the Naval Jelly to the rusted areas.
8. Wait about 10 minutes then rinse thoroughly with a hose.
9. Dry the rotor off with a towel.
10. Using an air compressor blow out any water inside the veins (if you don’t have a compressor then just let it air dry.)
11. So the places you want to paint are the face of the hat and the valley, and the outside edges and inside the veins.
12. Begin by using masking tape and completely cover the sides of the rotor where the brake pads ride. It’s OK to tape past the outside and inner edge of the rotor’s face. You’ll notice that the outside edges of the rotors are beveled at a 45 degree angle.
13. Use a single edge razor blade and trim the tape running the blade against the beveled edge leaving the beveled edge exposed. Do this on both sides.
14. Then using the razor blade trim the tape from the valley side of the rotor face. For this, after I trimmed the major portion off I went back and trimmed back about 1/16” around the rotor face. You’ll see what I mean if you look at the rotor faces that the pads don’t contact the face about 1/16” on both edges. On my rotors this was dark colored and a few spots had surface rust.
15. Now go ahead and start painting. Make sure you keep shaking the paint can while using it. The silver tends to spray unevenly if you don’t. Several thin coats worked better than heavy coats.
16. Let the rotor dry for a few hours.
17. Pull off the masking tape and use brake cleaner sprayed onto a paper towel or clean shop rag and wipe any overspray or adhesive from the tape off the rotor faces. Try not to touch them after they are clean. (Don’t get brake cleaner on your new paint or you’ll likely remove the paint.)
18. Now reassemble.
19. Slide the rotor on the wheel hub.
20. Attach the torx screw. (not sure of the torque spec, but it’s not a lot.)
21. Slide the caliper back in place and start the two bolts back in. Since these are TTY you should use new bolts, but several people reuse the old ones and apply blue Locktite. Your choice.
22. Tighten the TTY bolts torque to 44 ft/lbs and 90 degrees more (fronts) and the rears to 30 lb/ft 90 degrees.
23. Put the wheel back and enjoy.