[pharmd]

Scott, I was VERY dissappointed last night at the strip. I never do a "burn out" in the water box when I am running on true street tires, so I pull around it, then back up near the water box (but not in it), then turn the tires over a few times to clean them off. I did this last night (first run) in competitive mode, so I go to turn them over and it takes off like a boat anchor is tied to the rear, it looked ridiculous...I floored it, but it barely even moved forward. So before I staged, I turned everything OFF. I hit the button and turned TC off then held it for 7 seconds and turned stabilitrac off. I feel your pain though..at the track if you look at my thread where I posted my 1/4 video, I spin just a little out of the hole on my fastest run. I would certainly not say they went up in smoke or anything, however, it was on a fairly well preped track. But I can't see it doing much on the street either. Normally I would say, this is an advantage b/c "spinning aint winning" but if you have a fairly powerful car, spinning is a byproduct of that power, and usually you have to run DR to put the power down.

I really think you need to 1st check with your dealer to make sure everything is kosher, then if you can't get any satisfaction from them, take matters into your own hands and start with the performance aftermarket. It all depends on how much you want to spend, how much "comfort" you are willing to give up, and how far you want to go (performance wise).

If I were you and wanted to stay "bolt-on", I would get a good CAI, ARH headers and whatever axle back sounds good to you, a stall (yank or Vigilante) and a dyno based tune to bring all those things together. FYI, my TBSS ran 14.8 @ 93 in weather like we are having now bone stock, then with the mods mentioned above, it ran 12.8 @ 103 in better weather. Just showing how much of a difference weather + mods made...2 seconds and 10 mph with 4 mods. My TBSS weights almost 5K lbs, so I would expect since these mods would actually make more power on the L99, you make gain more.

I would also say that if you don't mind going to this extent, I would get a mild VVT cam and do the AFM delete...since you have to remove the heads when you install the AFM delete kit (pretty sure on this), you could install a thinner head gasket and get a little compression back (since your down on CR from the LS3). Either way, I'd have my tuner get rid of the AFM part of your tune.

I am resolved to the fact this is slower than what I expected, BUT, with the amount of aftermarket stuff for this car, it will be my fault if it stays that way.