At the risk of "getting involved", I feel the need to lend my expert opinion to the situation. I have nothing to do with either party, except to share this great forum with them both.
As someone who does thousands of vinyls a month in the NY Tri-state area, for big store windows, fashion showrooms, signage, etc. I will lend the following.
Knowing that the vendor uses Avery is great, but what series. There are many for multiple uses:
A9 is the only series that should go on a car. It is a 9 year vinyl (10 year on the white and black) and is made permanent solvent adhesive and is a CAST VINYL. This is very important, because it has less shrinkage, and can be made thinner than a "Calendered" Vinyl. The advantage is that it can conform to shapes easily, and is less likely to catch wax or get caught by your microfiber as you clean the car.
Here is more about vinyl types if you are interested:
http://www.signindustry.com/outdoor/...alendered.php3
With that said, if the vinyl is that series than it is the BEST money can buy....and it IS NOT CHEAP. It runs in excess of $15 - $25 a linear foot for an 18" wide roll of some materials, which will only do one side of the stripe. Plus there is the expenses of the machine and Transfer tape. For every foot of vinyl you use a foot of transfer tape. Then comes the
time to weed the vinyl and the design and test fitting is grueling. After the vinyl gets cut, you need to peel away the part not being used WITHOUT damaging the useable part. There is a LOT of waste when cutting vinyl. You need a leader and an advance to cut the material. Material only comes in fixed widths, so much gets wasted, so it gets pricey. The prices people on here are charging are very good prices.
Now here is the part that is an issue. Selling a product that needs to get installed on the outside. The bubbles are not from cheap vinyl, but from installing dry usually. If the surface was properly prepped and a solution is used to "FLOAT" the vinyl, then when you position and squeegee the vinyl down, the solution comes out and the surface is bubble free. If it is installed dry, then what happens is pockets of air get caught when either side of the vinyl sets in place and the squeegee has no way of pushing the air out. At this point you can insert a pin and squeegee or hope the vinyl will set in the sun. It is 50/50 depending on the size of the bubbles. But if you have bubbles and leave the car in the sun for 24 hours, usually what is there after that point stays there.
As for the shape, this is the tricky part. I look at those photo's and it appears to be installed improperly. Here is why I say that. Vinyl is VERY stretchy. It appears as if he started at the top and worked from the outside toward the middle of the hood. On these stripes, you need to anchor the top inside and follow the center hoodline. If you do that and let the outside fall, the curve will fall naturally and it will appear perfectly straight. Who ever installed it did not follow the centerline.
I do however see one issue. If these are made from the factory stripe template, but just set out further apart, the Front Edge Angle needs to be adjusted to be less of a point. You can see in the picture where the angle is too sharp in front for the wider spacing.
I hope my UN-OBJECTIVE opinion helps people in making a further decision.
I am in the business of vinyl, but above that I am a Camaro lover and hate to see a fellow Camaro lover in such pain. If you were local to me, I would be happy to help you install a new set. The hood is a bitch to install because you are working so far away from your body and you need to work from the side so it is hard to see what you are doing. You have to make sure that the installer cuts the backing away from the top inside corner, lays it down (lined up) and then tapes the graphic down so it does not move as he peels the backing, sprays solution and begins application!
Good luck to you both!
It is up to each owns business sense as to what the right decision is.