Quote:
Originally Posted by td195f
Do your homework. Overcamming the car will make it miserable to drive on the street. You don't want to end up with a cam that the powerband doesn't start until 3500 or 4000 rpm if all you're going to do is drive the car on the street. Google Comp Cams and use the resources on their web site. If you're not sure call their toll free number and ask questions. My last several race cams have been custom ground by Comp and they've gotten everything right that I've asked for. If you're having a shop do the work and they're recommending a cam still get the Comp recommendation and compare the two. If unsure ASK QUESTIONS! Don't settle and end up unhappy. Remember a cam change also means lifters, valve springs, spring retainers, locks and shims and may require different length pushrods and a rocker arm change. While you're disassembled that far think about upgrading the timing chain and Oil Pump also.
A good book to learn a lot about this is published by Motorbooks called "How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines". It's a cheap $25.00 to spend to understand what needs to be done if you don't already know.
Sorry for the run on but I'd prefer to see you get what you want the first time.
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Knowledge has been spoken, Out of most people on the Camaro5 website,
when you talk HP I will always listen. Your probably the most serious drag racer that we have in our UpstateC5 club.
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2017 ZL1 A10: 8.84 @ 156 PB
2017 ZL1 A10: Previously FBO 756/761 (9.6 @ 143 1/4)
SOLD-2013 ZL1 M6:BTR,LTs,IDs,ATI,RotoFab10.84@129
SOLD-2011 SS M6: Blower, Cam, Alky, LTs.
Last edited by Ron_Robinson1; 08-28-2013 at 05:00 PM.
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