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Old 10-01-2013, 07:38 AM   #3
10 2SS/RS 6M
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Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS 6M Black-s/s
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 390
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I understand why you installed the zerk fitting, but it may not work as you planned. With a two part urethane bushing the ferule rotates inside the bushing and the bushing does not move. If the load bearing surface of the bushing is greased, the are of the bushing that fills the hole in the arm or knuckle, it facilitates lateral movement of the arm across the bushing which is not desirable. The purpose of installing the urethane bushing is to reduce lateral movement. This is especially true where engine or brake heat softens urethane and lube becomes more liquid. Some times less is more.

Link to Bushing Lubrication and Installation Guide

Detailed Bushing Installation Guide

When installing a new urethane bush you want to lubricate only the moving portion of the bush. When you know what moves you know what to lube. The bush does not move. The bush remains stationary in the loop of the arm it is installed in. The ferule inside the new Pedders urethane bush moves. The ferule rotates inside of the bush so we lubricate the hole for the ferule.

Urethane bushes have ferule holes that are designed to retain the special Molybdenum blended lubricant used by Pedders. Pedders lube retains lubricity under the most severe conditions. Make certain that the inner hole is thoroughly coated and no Pedders red material can be seen before inserting the ferule. Wipe off the excess lube that collected on the end of the ferule as it passed through the bush.

The most common installation error made is lubricating the load bearing surface of a urethane bush. If you lubricate the load bearing surface the bush slips and slides in the arm loop. This undesirable motion creates instability. This is most commonly seen with sway bar bushes sliding out of the clamp or two part control arm bushes sliding through the arm.

Steel jacketed rubber and urethane bushes should never be lubricated as they are pressed into the the arm loop. Pedders highly recommends the use of sleeve retention compounds. The loop should be grease and oil free as should the new bush steel jacket. Apply LocTite 680 in a single bead line around the lower portion of the steel jacket. Set the bush in place on the new arm and press it in with you hydraulic press. Use a carefully selected press plate or socket to protect the exposed rubber or urethane material.

For eXtreme Motorsports, Armored or Commercial applications staking the arm is a Best Practice at Pedders USA. To make certain that the steel jackets do not slip under these most extreme conditions, stake the arms. Use a center punch to stake, dimple the arms. Think of the arm as the face of a clock. We use three rows of dimples.

Row 1: set the first dimple at 12, the second at 3, the third at 6 and the fourth at 9.
Row 2: 1, 4, 7: and 10.
Row 3: 2, 5, 8, 11.
They don't need to be deep. A firm blow with a moderate size hammer is sufficient.
Clean the arms surface to be grease free
Clean the bush jacket to be grease free
Apply the retaining compound
Press in the bush

Additional Sleeve Retention Compounds
BOSSŪ 207 Anaerobic Bearing/Sleeve Retaining Compound
35143 Permatex 640 Sleeve Retaining Compound 6 ML Tube
CRC Sleeve Retaining Compound
I understand what your saying, but the grease fitting is positioned right at the two bushing halves, I by no means want to get grease on the outer part (load bearing) portion of the bushing. But did you see what happened to the bushing with NO grease, I try to only give it one slow pump of super lube there just to keep the pin lubricated and not wearing and rusting out the bushing pin, the poly bushing has the groves in it for lubricating purposes I always thought?

Thank you for the great info you provided, maybe that's why I'm having rear alignment problems!

I would also NEVER lube the outer portion of the bushings, I haven't been working with polyurethane bushings that long, but the thought never even entered my mind, it would be pointless to lube the side that's not supposed to move, now the outer portion that contacts the trailing arm I lube along with the pin and inner bushing the pin slides in.

Question: Do you think it would be better to seal the outer portion of the bushing to the ferule, to prevent any grease getting in between the bushing and the ferule when lubing the bushings with a grease gun? Thanks again.
SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. QA1 rear lower control arms. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport 1.5" rear sway-bar. SPOHN 1.25" front sway-bar. Monster LT1-S twin clutch. Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60', 2010.

Last edited by 10 2SS/RS 6M; 10-01-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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