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Old 01-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #30
TornadoSS
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Drives: 2011 1SS/RS IOM LS3
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 1,111
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
I'll fire up my computer and post a few pics... I did pull the back and sides of the center console...

I pulled the rear seats, and removed the rear seatbelts as no one is allowed to ride back there any more... Then pulled the door sill moulding, the rear seat plastic side pieces, and the front seats. There is a pretty substantial piece of foam inside the plastic side trim pieces... I broke them off and threw them away... It was virtually impossible to get them back in... After carefully marking the side panels, cut them as directed... Check several times before making any cuts... I'll tell you point blank, these are a mofo to get back in... The go between the main hoop and the car side... Have fun... No other recommendations here, other than they are relatively cheap if you tear one up... You will also have to trim these plastic pieces just a bit when you go back in with them where the foot holds the carpet up just a little bit... I used a tiny reciprocal air saw to do this.

It would be a bit easier if the passenger door is removed, but not enough so to make it worthwhile IMO....

Roll the carpet in both rear corners up and use a tie wrap to pull them together in the center near the back of the console.

The main bar has to be turned forward, inserted carefully into the car and then rotated back into place... Have at least two people to help with this step... Check the fit and clearances ( make sure its dentered) and remove it if necessary... I had to remove some of the sound / vibration stuff they squirt out at various spots.. This sucks as the stuff is really tough... . I then drilled or marked all the spots for the main frame... I pulled it back out and finished drilling the other holes...

Here is a point to remember... On the main hoop the bolts can go through from the inside... On the feet that go back to the wheel wells, put them in from the outside... It allows for the inner fender to fit back in. If you run these bolts through from the inside, they will strike the inner fender and eventually poke through...

After all the holes are drilled, have someone get under the car and mark the backer plates... Then drill them... If they didn't come with the kit, use pretty good sized flat washers inside and out, and a lock washer...

As was mentioned above... Before drilling anything, locate and note the location of the fuel lines... They pass right where one of the feet mounts... Spray some primer from a rattle can into a paint can cap and use a small brush the dab it on the areas drilled out. I used a bit of silicone caulk as well...

Place the main bar back in the car and rotate it in to position. Put all of the bolts in prior to tightening any of them.. This allows for slight shifts if needed.

After all the feet are bolted in, grab a door bar and insert it into the up
ER shoe. Leave about a quarter inch gap here... Mark the bar and drill it for a tight fit for the pin. Be careful to drill it through the center line... Remove the kick panel and pull the carpet up on the effected side and tuck it towards the gas pedal. Insert the door bar back into the upper shoe and pin it in place... Get the lower shoe and slide it into place and allow for a bit of swing radius in the lower shoe... Do not have the lower end of the bar fitted firmly into the shoe and mark it... I used a small piece of cloth rolled up to space it out from the inner face of the pivot point. About 3/16 of an inch... Then marked the ar for drilling. If you hold it firm against the inner wall, the bar will not pivot very well if at all... Once this is done, insert the pivot bolt and lay the shoe on the floor. Mark the holes and then remove the shoe. Drill the ho,es after first cerifying anything under the floor board that could be hit by the drill bit... Fuel lines etc... Mark the backer plates and drill them out... Bolt the shoe in, loosely, insert the pivot bolt, and then tighten everything on this side. Repeat these steps on the other side if you have both door bars...

Lay the carpet back as well as you can then determine where to start cutting... Cut from the outside of the car inward... This way most of the cut is hidden by trim panels... Cut out the circle of the bar and lay the carpet in then reinstall the trim pieces... The kick panels will also Ned to be trimmed at the bottom where the show holds the carpet up...to allow for a good fit... Put the rear seats back in. Then the fronts, and enjoy...

Pics on the way...
Thanks for the awesome info! This is what we were looking for!
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2011 IOM SS/RS, M6. Look up our all generation Camaro club website at Heartland Camaros
Gforce Engineering Drivetrain, ECS 1500 Supercharger, TSP Cam, Alky Controls Meth single nozzle. 91 octane, 698 RWHP 625 rwtq. 4200#+, Tuned by Justin "Justune" Kalwei
11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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