[christianchevell]

Also you will note on my posts it says nothing about the need to break in the cam and springs in the DIY cam install which is a very good post,,,,also the need to change the oil right after the thirty minutes you have to heat treat the cam and springs by running them at over a certain rpm..like 2000 at least for at least thirty minutes then letting them cool down............. oh but what do us old school hotrodders know...... You want a cam to grind itself to death and ruin your engine just ignore me and just drive it everywhere without a tune and break in for the cam......... And I buy my cam from experience not because it has a name like the " oh boy" cam and I have installed my cams in my engines long before some of you were born...........and if you cannot understand what I write well you do not know squat then, as TSP states its cams are the best and back that up........ so I am the king of paste ..what ever.....

TSP's all new line of LS3 camshafts are a result of months of engine dyno camshaft development using our state of the art Superflow 902 engine dyno. Using a brand new LS3 crate engine we started from scratch to build the most power LS3 camshafts available in the country.

The 235/239 camshaft uses a all new proprietary intake lobe designed to offer extra duration while maintaining proper p/v clearance for stock piston ls3/ l92 engines. The result of these lobe design changes is a camshaft that makes more power than the popular 231/236 camshaft while still maintaining good p/v clearance! (check dyno sheet above) LS3 computers can easily be tuned to drive great with this camshaft with some bucking bellow 1500 rpm. M6 cars or automatic cars with stall converter 2800rpm or larger required. We recommend this camshaft for LS3 or LS2 engines using L92/LS3 rectangle port cylinder heads!

Specs:
3-bolt 235/239 .639"/623" 112 LSA *camshaft is also available in wider LSA


Aggressive intake lobe requires the use of a Precision Race Components EHT Spring Kit!

This cam spanks a night fury cam............ And I am sure there are even better full race cams as yes they are out there yet it comes to maximizing what you want to do with the car and if it still going to be a daily driver. Read up on the specs of cams and figure it out for yourself. If someone only gets 480 h.p. with all the goodies like headers, throttle body, custom tune, CAI 3" exhaust etc etc on one cam and someone else can get over 500 h.p. with a nice flatter higher torque curve alll across the board and the same exact parts except the cam....well you be the judge. And yes there are parrots on here spouting stuff of which they know nothing about, And I did not Run just 350's I ran 283's 327's 302's 377's 383's and my favorite 406's my last had dart iron eagle heads that out flowed the best of Edlebrock were custom drilled for the steam ports required for between the cylinder cooling, had roller rockers, hardened pushrods, airgap intake, spectre linkage, demon carb, tri y headers, Custom curved HEI and made well above 450 h.p. with 10.5 to one compression off keith black pistons........... Oh Gee can someone understand that? And god don't want to get into all the non gm engines like ford 429's, dodge elephants and heck even ...get this fixed up a YUGO once just to mess with a red headed stepchild....

To do a good cam install some will say oh you need a oil pump....( the stock unit flows well), they will say you need a upgraded timing chain...which is nice yet adds $500 to drop the pan and then replace....and do not get a double roller as you would need a new timing cover etc.... Some will insist the stock oil pump is insufficient, well the cars are not idling like my old school rods around 600-650 rpm now adays as they are fuel injected and get much better mileage and the oil pressure will stay up and do fine unless your into using a full synthetic oil without the proper minerals in it that can not bond easily to synthetic, ( its a chemical thing), so that is why I run just the dexos fifty fifty.... Seems I read one too many posts of engine parts failure like oil pump and lifters and such with mobile one.

I am using a ls2 damper on my timing chain and ditching the stock ls3 tensioner as per my builders instructions. Theres different schools of thoughts on that, yet I go with what I believe is the best and necessary ......... And the stock tensioner has been known to contribute plastic to the oil pan on occasion and I never ran a tensioner on any motor I built, let alone to think of one being plastic guiding a metal chain remind me of the damn nylon timing gears ford and gm did for a while that fell apart in the engine...... Then again what I am just a old school hot rodder who remembers boat anchors like the chevy 307 which was made with too little nickel in the block causing it to wear out way too quick, or the ford 400 which was a turd compared to the chevy 400 and required a valley gasket under the intake to keep it sealed made of metal and going across the valley...and even ford mechanics said it sucked.
Well anyway you would need to pick out a cam or cam package, which I am going with TSP texas speed and performance package for their best cam for a ls3. And it will come with the cam, springs good to .675 lift that I pay $50 more for, 7.425 length hardened pushrods that are longer than stock and longer than many have put on there cars not knowing that 7.4 usually recommended is not long enough given the decrease in base circle of the new cam compared to stock, and the need for lifter preload to be just right, ( I go with what my builder recommends) Now I do not have a cam card yet as I am waiting to get money very soon to do this venture..about $4300 with taxes to install the cam headers, and dyno tune my car in a shop in another state with HP tuners.
Also you will need a good harmonic balancer as the variations of the cars new cam shaft will make the harmonic balancer way off compared to the way it should be covering a much wider range... so you get one of those, TSP has a nice one for only $220 with both belts needed as its a 25 %underdrive which will net slightly 8-10 more h.p. without affecting accessories hardly at all.

And you will need a cam gasket kit $62 with a new crank bolt for the balancer as the old one is shot after using it to pull the new balancer on ....... P.s. the ls2 damper is $19. And you should get g.m. multilayer steel exhaust gaskets for the headers.... , and know that the cam kit you are ordering should be a three bolt kit with the g.m. timing gear three bolt and it will be stronger than the johnny come lately one bolt design. SO then you need to pick headers to do as its the perfect time getting it dyno tuned..... I went with>>>> ANd there are a lot of different opinions on this,:
Stainless Power from Maryland speed, for $712 for 1 7/8" with cats, the same as Stainless works basically but made overseas with the quality checked by stainless works and the only difference being elongated bolt holes on the overseas headers compared to just a round bolt hole on the U.S. made...that and being made overseas, and having only a two year warranty compared to a lifetime warranty with the same 304 stainless....its worth it to save $500 for me to go with the import, and the price is great with no one able to beat it I could find or have comparable quality , (TSP headers are supposed to have some fitment issues and cost more slightly and everyone I found who used these loved them without the fitment issues). Also these headers come with the 02 extensions and bolts ...the hi temp silicon is a joke and No good old school rodder would use it that's the reason for the metal header gaskets as headers love to blow out their gaskets........ Something I guess us old school guys would know, also Keep a eye on the acidity of your antifreeze in the future as it gets acidic...sure a hydrometer can tell you hey its still colorful and gives you protection to what ever degrees.... But you need a Litmus test strip to keep a eye on the antifreeze acidity as its not reacting with iron and rust etc and turning brown...its just in aluminum and can eat at a head gasket from its acid over time if not changed like every three years or so with a total flush.
Yes having a aluminum block is nice with aluminum heads,( I used to always have to go back and retorque all my heads and intakes due to the difference in expansion and contraction of the different metals every thirty thousand miles if they were aluminum on cast iron......) And this is something that kept many mechanics employed changing head gaskets, or someone is lucky just tightening head bolts etc..... And I am going to keep a eye on my plastic intake... Ford rangers really had trouble with theres......

Well I am just rambling Anyway good luck to you all, And remember the longer you live the more you know you do not know anything, and have so much more to learn.
Heck maybe I could just copy someone else's post and make a smart AZZ comment cuz I am so friggin smart.