View Single Post
Old 05-14-2014, 04:14 PM   #16
2010 2SS/RS M6
Dexman1349's Avatar
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
Toe rods took me about an hour from beginning to end. Part that makes them a little more challenging than they should is the fact you have to drop the cradle on the driver's side to get the bolt out.

Jack up the rear of the car, put on jack stands.
Remove rear wheels
Before you remove anything on the suspension, mark the placement of the bolts & washers on either end of the tie rods.
Loosen the driver's side of the cradle (two bolts on the underside) and let it hang down. Dont remove the bolts completely.
Remove the nuts/bolts on either end of the tie rod.
Insert new rods and reverse the above.
When you go to tighten everything down, make sure the bolt/washer marks line back up again. This will at least get the alignment close.

I have not done my trailing arms, so I can't be much help there.
Take the car to a shop and get an alignment.
2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq

Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace

Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter

Bumblebee Racecar Build
Dexman1349 is offline   Reply With Quote