[christianchevell]

I am at 500 rwhp...TSP's best cam .....there .675 springs, and 7.375 hardened pushrods, Stainless headers with cats, and CAI...... got me to 491 rwhp HP dyno tuned for about 5 grand. Add in a UDP from fluid master and a vmax and there you go....I bought all my everything, drove it to another state to find the best tuner/mechanic in my area, limited torque management, custom fuel curving to be rich, ditch throttle delay, etc etc . And I used Driven racing oil for break in and use LS30 for driving and am on the stock oil /timing chain may change them out some day but really not needed so bad off the bat. The thing is I am going to have my springs checked at 25k miles to ensure longevity, with the driven oil I know I have the best and that's not a worry, and my builder is a g.m. guru so thus the everything is perfect. I do have a 13 with the dual mode and electric power steering on a ls3 and I did not do the heads...our heads are supposed to flow well beyond 600 h.p. and doing them is costly with some gain but yes then you have to worry about upper valve train geometry and if the cam you chose is going to work.... the pushrods.... etc.

Stock lifters are good and rockers.. many upgrade the trunions....but with checking springs every25k or so I have no worries according to my builder the 1st year ls7 427 was the one that had to have the rockers fixed... Also the reason you do not see night fury cam specs on here.... yes they change some like LSA etc but the cam is just a good cam, not the best for a radical build and leaves some on the table ...... Thus why I am a old hotrodder who runs a .639/.623 lift 112 LSA .235/.239 duration cam from TSP the best I could find..... I do not eat the same bait every one else does.... Thus if you bought the nightfury cam and did CNC ported cylinder heads.... you better make sure they work together or you might be like the guy a few posts ago saying on man my heads do not fit with my night fury cam........ Sure more compression is nice...but shaving the deck on head changes all the geometry....... pistons that need flycut... custom length pushrods..... etc porting just the intake and exhaust is good yet changing the compression ratio through the heads is..... needed to be taken into account in the tune.... otherwise.... knock knock boom.... sure our computer is supposed to take care of everything....only if the person programming it can make sure the spark retard/advance and anti knock/detonation is set right and you have 93 octane constantly and then you what..... add octane booster every time so you can go what is not really that practical of a compression ratio.... heck we already have 10.7....I used to build engines to around there and the closer you got to 11 the more you had to worry..... I am talking carbureted ....................

SO yes naturally aspirated you can easily reach 500 rwhp if you pick the right parts and do a custom tune right... I am still waiting on vararam to make a new intake so I can get to around 600 flywheel......lol And years of research can help....it did me and I am happy as can be with my build and its going to the rear diff now with the cash.... already did some suspension upgrades etc...and do not forget the lpw rear diff cover and any poly bushings..... So I will most likely have about your budget into it with the Eaton true trac posi and 3.91 gears and the upgraded suspension and install etc...... I do not just go all out nuts for one thing and starve another area it comes back to bite you...... And some where down the road I plan upgrades and tweaks here and there..... Here is a dyno of my car with just CAI, longtubes with cats and the "cam" ....... this is a mustang dyno too its not a inflated numbers dynojet and yes it has put out numbers for other members cars which are totally correct for the cam they chose and their mods compared to mine...... yes gee if you find the right any dyno the numbers can be faked to represent a lot different total...say std vs sae, or the operator over inflating temp or any input that the dyno uses to make a corrected read out which dynojets are more known to inflate that a true load dyno......oh that's another ramble............ anyway good luck!!!!!! And read old posts, many are on here of people installing there own cams or other cam nightmares as this is the internet and people with a problem come here..... then you can learn form there mistakes...as in I thought years ago I would need 7.40 pushrods....not 7.375.. Maybe some beehive springs... not dual springs.... I also heard many think they can do it all without breaking in the cam because its a roller....sure it works, but for how long? And which oil is the best....? This is one big ugly can of worms here, and that's why I had a expert and my best judgement determine what I was going to do, and I have decades of good old chevy small block building to rely on in my experience all done by me. And opinions are like what? And yes I can still get over 20 MPG on the freeway....try that with a forced induction build going for both....lol



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