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ClawSS · 09-03-2015, 09:46 AM

I did not go power until I could get what I had to the ground first. I went BMR brand on my 2010 but stayed inboard on the parts as they did not have outboard swaps available. I probably need a driver mod before being able to experience a difference, but I could be wrong.

If you are only about sound...fine, but to be honest...suspension first based on your goals, brakes second (although the Brembos are very good to begin with), then start adding power until you break something. Fix it...wash, rinse, repeat.

09-03-2015, 09:46 AM	#28
ClawSS High-tech Redneck Drives: '10 CGM SS, '02 2500HD, '09 300SRT8 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lexington, KY Posts: 757	I did not go power until I could get what I had to the ground first. I went BMR brand on my 2010 but stayed inboard on the parts as they did not have outboard swaps available. I probably need a driver mod before being able to experience a difference, but I could be wrong. If you are only about sound...fine, but to be honest...suspension first based on your goals, brakes second (although the Brembos are very good to begin with), then start adding power until you break something. Fix it...wash, rinse, repeat. __________________ "My friends call me Chris. Are you my friend?" 2010 CGM L99 2SS/RS - GPI SS3 VVT, BTR DoD Delete, Circle D 4c, BTR springs, Katech C5R Timing Chain, MRR-228 315/275, CAI, Elite catch-can, TSP 1 7/8" Headers + offroad pipes, Magnaflow 3", Pfadt springs, BMR LCAs, toelinks, trailing arms, cradle bushings, & sway bars w/ endlinks, Vitesse paddles, heritage grille, and an eBay splitter. Power upgrades by Race Proven Perf.; Tuning by ShorTuning.