The season is coming to an end, yet all in a sudden I have quite a bit to do:
- Differential: I got the pumpkin back from the diff shop, and now it has Eaton diff in it! It is pretty straightforward to put it back in, but I want to do the Tick bleeder before doing so, while the shaft and transmission cooler lines are out of the way.
- Tick remote bleeder: I don't know how these people did it, but my hands just don't fit!
- I ended up cheating: I lowered the engine by .25" (removing BMR motor mounts' spacer), and lowered the transmission about .5" (loosening its mount), after which I was able to put my fingers into the access hole much easier.
- Anyway, the bleeder is finally on, but I'm having hard time making sure it's tight. I'll get the exact fit (7/16") flare nut crowfoot wrench tomorrow, since my metric 12mm is a bit too loose to feel for it through the hole by hand.
- Engine mounts: The BMR engine mounts' bushings lost their shape a bit in time, just like all the other aftermarket bushings I had. Better late than never, I'll put back my lovely, high quality 1LE motor mounts. As a bonus, I will no longer have the annoying vibrations; wooHoo! BMR's claim of not feeling they're there at all once they settle is completely wrong, but I know why they make their claim. These bushings are much softer at 90 degrees F. No wonder, since BMR is in Florida, it's all good there
- Rock guards: I've replaced the rock guards with the replacement ones sent by ZL1Addons. I think they're too small for the track duty, but they think they are adequate. Oh well. The top bolts were loose since they were self-tapping onto the plastic of the fender. I used small plastic bolt anchors, and they worked perfect! The rock guard is tight in its place:
- Left rear caliper: Since it was damaged due to falling caliper bolt, I will be replacing it once the differential is finished. I will also use the Nord-lock washers on the calipers. They are not going anywhere anymore. I also have new OEM bolts to use.
- Exhaust: My exhaust was one piece and I had to cut it to work on diff cooler, etc. I have clamps to use; here is hoping it works out. If not, the muffler shop is close : )
- Fluids: I've drained every oily fluid this car has during this surgery: brake (for clutch bleeder), transmission, differential, and engine oil. The car will have a 'fresh start' to the winter I'll use Redline 75W90-NS for diff, Mobil1 5W-30ESP for engine, Amsoil Signature ATF for transmission.
- Harness bar and new racing harness: I finally drove down close to Portland, and picked up his custom harness bar from EarlyApex. He is an engineer, and has designed it himself inspired by the B.K. bar. However, it is using better quality attachment points and joints. Looking forward to trying it at the track! I am also ditching the Schroth Rallye 3 ASM harness in favor of Schorth Profi II ASM, now that I have a proper harness bar (and tank plates).
BMR engine mount after 1 summer. Observe the compressed (squeezed) top red bushing. Perhaps they're better for street use. I'll put them up for sale if anyone would like. I'm sure BMR would replace the bushings with new ones; they do have good customer service.
Excuse the leaf mess; I had to leave the exhaust outside to increase space. It was quite hard to handle as one piece during the uninstall.
I have carefully examined the cracks, and they are all concentrated in the middle of the rotor, and are not heading to the edges. I think they will hold up just fine. I will probably replace them in spring time before the next season.
The OEM bleeder, and its replacement. It's mind boggling why Tremec would leave the bleeder like that. If they made it a little longer, and perhaps make it bende 90 degrees down with the bleeder valve at the tip, we would not need this mod.
I'll need this in 7/16" size. I put zip ties to the tools, OEM bleeder, etc. to make sure I don't drop them into to the transmission.
Here is the hole. The clutch looks pretty clean, in good condition; no leaks, etc.
With the new bleeder on
