12-01-2015, 08:29 PM
|
#759
|
Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Posts: 3,073
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by alice
You know better as to the possible cause. For sure, the PCV system needs to be correct. I would spend the necessary time to nail down the problems so you won't be guessing. You are doing a great job on this build and I am impressed. I spend more time thinking things out than actually doing them. It certainly pays off in the end. I highly recommend the Turbowerx Exa pump for oil return. I have used them and they seem to be one of the best on the market. Just a suggestion. A bit expensive but on a job like yours, justified. I dumped the return oil back into the drivers valve cover at the rear where the factory fitting is located. Works great. There is a very cheap way to monitor the pump voltage. Get a 12 volt LED, mount it somewhere on the dash and wire one side to ground, the +12 volt side of the LED would run all the way to the pumps +12volt input. (right at the pump body, after the fuse and all the pump wiring. This will tell you that you have 12 volts at the pump and the fuse and upstream wiring is OK. It will not, however, verify that the pump is running or pumping oil but this will give you a very cheap way of knowing voltage is at the pump. There are other, more involved ways, to actually verifying oil is pumping back to the engine but obviously, more money and work.
|
I worry more about the pump failing than the wiring going to it. But either would ultimately cause the pump to quit. I've heard about using a hobbs pressure switch in line hooked up to a light inside. I need to look into that some more.
__________________
3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph
Last edited by JantzenOKC; 12-03-2015 at 08:45 PM.
|
|
|