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I just got finished with this analysis myself. I went with a Z/28 and aftermarket package. I have a 2010 as well so I can tell you the difference is huge!
First, look at the 1LE package...
same toelinks as the ZL1 and Z/28; monoballs on both ends.
28mm rear / 27mm front sway bars (solid), compared to the 23mm/24mm hollow you have now.
stiffer valving on the shocks/struts, monotube shocks and improved shock mount.
same springs you have now.
Now, look at the Z/28 package...
same toelinks as the 1LE package; monoballs on both ends.
trailing arms have stiffer rubber bushings on the inner end. you'll have to do something about the bushing on the knuckle to get ride of that compliance. Z/28 knuckles can be had, but I chose to use poly bushings in this position.
the upper control arms are the same as yours, save the large bushing which can be purchased separately.
sway bars are 25mm/26mm sold.
endlinks/drop links are the same as the 1LE and 2013+ SS.
front lower control arms have stiffer rubber bushings.
radius arms have stiffer bushing inserts. for less than the price of the arms, you can purchase JPSS inserts that at least as good.
now struts/shocks are where the big money is.
spring are very stiff (relatively speaking).
as far as packaging goes, the springs, shocks/struts and sway bars must work together as a system. upgraded bushings/bearings simply remove compliance to hold alignment as desired when loaded.
i ultimately decided on all of the Z/28 bushings everywhere, except for the JPSS inserts on the radius arms and JDP on the rear knuckle at the trailing arm.
i also installed pfadt solid aluminum cradle bushings because i got a smoking deal on them during black friday. i can tell you that bumps are not any harsher than before, you just become aware of what the road is like between bumps where you were numb before. wifey should be fine.
while i was getting all the bushing, i replaced the steering rack bushing for a few bucks with a BMR piece.
i had previously installed pfadt drop springs and really liked what they did for the track but made me want less roll still at the track. i still have my original shocks/struts which are a bit soft but not horrible for now. I do have to address those soon; i'm at 40k miles.
both 1LE and Z/28 packs are designed around square tire setups.
i have not drive a 1LE or Z/28, but everyone that has written about it here says understeer is still present. my staggered tire setup has loads of understeer. i did buy a set of 20x9's to try and address that, but my rambling is about the sway bars. the sway bars will help move the balance of the handling front or rear.
i went with the JPSS sway bars (27mm/32mm solid) for maximum understeer delete. I'm hoping they don't make me tail happy. haven't been to the track yet so I can't comment.
right now, my car is in the soft springs, heavy bar camp.
the Z/28 set up is in the heavy spring, soft bar camp.
i'm not sure if i will get 1LE shocks/struts and call it good or move on to some coilovers. my point is, for the Z/28 shocks/strut money, you have options.
Everything I mentioned above fits inside $1600. I did all the labor myself.
I'd skip the Z/28 cradle and spend that money on the aluminum bushings; they're not bad for noise or comfort. You can hear more noise, but it doesn't bother.
sorry for the book i just wrote, but i wish someone had written all this out for me a few months ago.
...and yes, i installed the stock FE4 rear lower control arms and drop links/endlinks. if they fail me, i'll go further. FE4 lca's are $37 a piece.
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