[hesster]

On to the Rear Tear down. Not alot of Pics, cause they are all over the Forum already, but I threw in some KEY 1's cause some of this stuff ain't easy.

Suspension Disassembly - Rear of the vehicle
First of all, if you have a stock exhaust, it has to be dropped and removed for access to some bolts, and this is mandatory for some of the UCA Bolts. I have a Borla Atak, so access was OK and I did NOT have to drop the entire cradle or disconnect the Driveshaft Flex Joint to remove everything, including the Cradle Bushings. I did have to disconnect the Exhaust at the rear hangers so the Diff and Cradle can drop independent of the exhaust.
o Remove the 4 Cross Tunnel Brace 15mm Bolts.
o Remove 10mm Brake Line Bolt from the UCA.
o To remove Stock Exhaust if you have one, loosen the exhaust front clamps with a 15mm socket or wrench, slide the Muffler mounts off the clamps at the front, then the rears off the mounting dowels and pull the exhaust out.
o Remove 18mm Caliper Bolts, and tie caliper out of the way.
o Ensure Park Brake is off. Remove Rotor T30 Torx Bolt, and pound off Rotor.
o If you are going to install better Axles, now is the Time to remove the 32mm Axle Shaft Nut at the Spindle/Hub. It is on there with 199FtLbs of Torque, and should not be reused. Use a breaker bar, or a Big-Ass Impact or Torque Wrench rated at 250 Ft Lb.
o Remove (2) ABS Sensor Line Retaining Clips from the Toe Rod.
o SWAY BAR LINK & BAR - Remove the Sway Bar End Link 15 mm nut from the Sway Bar end using a 15mm wrench and 5mm Allen wrench in the stud end. Pull the stud out from the arm and move it away. Don’t bother with the link connected to the LCA if you are installing a new Sway Bar and a new LCA. Remove the (2) 13mm Sway Bar Saddle Bolts from the Cradle. Repeat on the other side and remove the Sway Bar.
o TOE ROD - Remove the 18mm Toe Rod Bolt at the Hub/Spindle. Mark the Inner Bolt and Cam position on the LCA before removal, then remove the Toe Rod 21mm Inner Nut. The Driver’s side bolt cannot be extracted on the Driver’s side unless you lower the front of the Cradle. Place a Hydraulic Jack under the Differential, and position a pair of Jack Stands to support the Cradle at the front bolts. Remove the Front Cradle Bolts with a 24mm socket. Slowly lower the jack at the Differential and let the front Cradle tilt down at least 1” or more and remove the Toe Rod Inner Bolt and Toe Rod.
o TRAILING ARM - Remove the Trailing Arm Outer 18mm Nut and Bolt. Remove the Inner 18mm Bolt and Trailing Arm. The nut is welded to the cradle.
o Tie up the Axle to the Frame so it does not flop down.
o LOWER CONTROL ARM - Remove the 18mm LCA Bolt and Nut at the Hub/Spindle. But - Caution, there is some pressure from the spring, but not much. I suggest you use a spring compressor to be safe. Remove the 21mm Lower Control Arm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly using a 21mm Socket and the 21mm wrench. Mark the Camber position on the Inner’s Bolt/Washer/Frame, then remove the LCA 21mm inner Bolt and Nut, and remove the LCA .
o STRUT - Remove the (4) 15mm Strut Bolts at the Frame and remove strut.
o UPPER CONTROL ARM – this CAN be removed w/o dropping the rear of the cradle, as well as the UCA Rear Saddle Bracket! But, if you are going to replace or upgrade the Cradle Bushings, the rear of the Cradle must also be dropped, and it will make access to the UCA Rear Saddle Bolts much easier. This also CAN be done without dropping the NON STOCK Exhaust AND Drive Shaft at the Flange IF you have clearance of the Differential to the Exhaust Pipes. First remove or lower the Exhaust Tunnel Shield so the Driveshaft does not smack it while lowering the Cradle. Also pry out the Emergency Brake Cable from the Cradle Bracket, and then remove it from the Spindle/Hub. Remove the UCA 21mm Inner front Bolt and Nut. Then remove the UCA 18 mm Outer Bolt and Nut at the Spindle/Hub. Lastly, you can remove the 21mm Bushing Bolt and the UCA will slide right out, and it makes access to the Bushing Saddle Bolts easier, but the bolt is tough to get access to. Finally remove the (2) 18mm Rear Bushing Saddle Bolts and remove the Saddle Assembly, or if the Cradle is dropped, remove these first, pull out the UCA, and then remove the Bushing Bolt.
o DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL – remove the Spindle/Hub if you have not already. Carefully pry out the Axle Shaft using a small pry bar, and be careful not to damage the seal!
o REPEAT ALL OF THIS ON THE OTHER SIDE.
REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS[FONT=&quot] - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Install the Top Bushings first, then the Bottom's, then the Steel Inserts. I flipped the tool around as necessary and did this in steps. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, (too tight a fit) and it will strip the Bolts. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 24mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!