[JakeW1990]

Even with the crossmember cut out (yes, I have mine flanged and bolt removable as well), to completely remove the pan, there's a great chance you're going to have to either drop the sub-frame around an inch or go by Advance Auto and grab the universal valley lift plate like I did. Bolts onto the valley plate under the intake manifold and allows a hoist to lift the motor up so you can have whatever access you need. Otherwise, the rack and pinion catches the front lip of the pan and pushes it into the pickup tube and you still can't get the pan off.

I guess if you have electric steering you won't even have to worry about it. Remove all of the 10mm oil pan bolts, 1 10mm bracket holding the power cables and AC lines, 1 10mm holding the power cables on the passenger side and I think 1 more originally on the driver side- maybe not. Last 3 times I've taken my pan off I haven't re-installed the driver side because its pointless and time consuming working from 18" jack stands. 1 10mm transmission dust cover on driver side and 1 10mm dust cover on the starter. 2 15mm transmission bolts located on the bottom of the bell housing. 2 18mm motor mount nuts- you won't have to lift the motor to the point the studs come out of the holes, even if you do it takes 10 seconds to re-align it.

The above procedure works without buying the flanges for the removable crossmember section if you use a cherry picker and lift the motor a few inches. You can rent a hoist for $30/day.

Please note, you will have to cut it out and weld the flanges onto your very own crossmember if you buy the kit. If you aren't a welder or fabber, I advise you to take it to a shop.

My pan has been off 3 times in the last 2 weeks and 5 in the last couple of months- unfortunately I have become a professional oil pan remover/install.

Have fun.