All the wiring that I need will be from the engine harness to the engine CPU. The only other functions I'll need will be brake lights / head lights.
You don't want ABS? 
After building a few race cars having all the right wiring to start from is underrated. But I get ya.
Modifications to the suspension are pretty limited. From the Rule book:
"A maximum of 3.0 degrees of negative chamber is
allowed on front and rear suspensions. Strut suspensions may de-camber wheels by the use of eccentric bushings, eccentric bolts (crash bolts) at the strut-to-spindle, and/or by use of slotted adjusters at the top of the strut mounting plate. If upper strut slotted plates are used, they shall belocated on existing chassis structure, utilizing the manu- facturer’s original bolt holes and may not serve as rein- forcement for that structure. On other forms of suspen- sion, camber adjustment may be achieved by the use of shims and/or eccentric bushings. Slotted ball joints on A-arms on double wishbone cars may be used for camber adjustment only.
Ok, cool, pretty standard stuff. I'd recommend pulling from the JPSS playbook here. Max out the caster, max SAI, adjust camber to your preference at the knuckle. I'm running -2.5 camber right now and I'm fairly satisfied. Will likely shoot for higher later.
b. Springs, Anti-Roll bar(s), and Shock Absorbers
1. Springs and anti-roll bar(s), shall remain as manufactured unless an alternate is listed on the vehicle specification line. Cars where air conditioning units have been removed shall refer additionally to Section D.3.b.1., above, for additional spring requirements. If alternate sway bar(s) are listed on the specification line, adjustable end links are allowed. The length of the link must be within 1” +/- length of stock. No modifications are allowed to the mounting point(s) other than to accomplish attachment of link. There may only be (1) rated spring per suspension corner. In addition to the main rated spring, there may be a “helper” spring on cars allowed a maximum spring rate on their spec line. Helper springs keep the main spring snug and feature a very soft rate, on the order of 10 lbs./in.
So to me this reads as you can't change springs outside the 1LE kit...and they're the same as what you already have to boot. I assume you're killing the A/C so what's the extra qualifier there?
2. The make of shock absorber may be changed. Their number, perch location(s), system of attachment, and attachment points shall not be altered. Their type (tube vs. lever, etc.) shall not be altered. The interchange of gas and hydraulic shock absorbers is permitted.
So I'd get clarity on this one here...assuming you have to stick with the SS/1LE springs...I'd work with Koni on this one. They've semi-recently released Koni yellows (single adjustable) which are in a stock style mounting package which will work with the springs. Their grassroots Motorsports division is top notch quality support. Give them all your information and they'll adjust the base valving to work with your setup, don't just buy off the shelf. In my fbody days I was never disappointed
T4 only: (unless specified on spec line) Any non-adjustable shock absorber is allowed. The shock must be installed in the original mounting locations. Remote shocks are not permitted. Threaded shock bodies or adjusters may be used.
a. The mounting hardware utilized shall be of the original type.
b. The use of any shock absorber bushing material is permitted. Note: the bushing attaching the end of the strut to the body or frame on a strut-type suspen- sion system is considered a suspension bushing, not a shock absorber bushing.
c. T2 only: minimum ride height is 3.75” inches. T3 and T4 only: minimum ride height is 4.5” inches.
Ride height to be measured without driver at the lowest point of the rocker panel, but not to include welded seams or fasteners.
d. T2-T4 only: Cars with alternate spring allowance in spec line, may use adaptors, and threaded perches to allow fitment of springs."
As for just building a T2 with a V8 instead of the T3 V6 car it just comes down to money really, I figure the T2 car will cost roughly $12k more than the T2. They allow more modifications like ZL1 brakes, Z/28 aero, and Z/28 suspension. Not to mention the cost of the V8 being 5k more. I want to really work on driving skill right now. Plus go out and dice it up with V8 mustangs and porche boxters!