Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com - View Single Post - How to piece together a ZL1 differential swap

cc-rider · 11-15-2016, 02:04 PM

Just finished my ZL1 diff swap. Did a lot of reading on a lot of different threads to try and figure out how to piece it together using used parts. Kind of wish there was a definitive thread laying out what is needed. So I guess that's what I'm hoping to do here.

First, you need the obvious:

Differential. You can get the 3.73 manual...or the 3.23 auto. Only difference is the gear ratio inside. Everything else (dimensional) is identical.
Axles. You can use the ZL1 axles. Or go aftermarket. Note that the aftermarket axles designed for SS diffs will not work with the ZL1 diff.
Driveshaft. Again, you can go with the ZL1 driveshaft or aftermarket one pieces. This is where you need buy the right one for weather you are hooking up to an auto or a manual on the trans end. They are different lengths.

In addition to the diff/axles/driveshaft....you'll also need the following:

Trans flange (GM part# 22960154) Qty 1 (note that you can get away with using the stock SS trans flange if you go with an aftermarket driveshaft. Just make sure you tell them to build it to hook up to an SS trans flange on the trans end...and a ZL1 diff flange on the other end)
Axle Nuts (GM part# 11611234) Qty 2
Axle Washers (GM part# 11611965) Qty 2
Driveshaft to Trans Flange Bolts (GM part# 11611336) Qty 3
Driveshaft to Trans Flange Nuts (GM part# 11611365) Qty 3
Driveshaft to Diff Bolts (GM part# 11611335) Qty 3
Differential cooler plugs (GM part# 22960153) Qty 2 (this plugs off the cooler lines on the bottom of the diff. The ZL1 has a diff cooler. The SS doesn't)

Here is a link to the GM instructions on how to do the swap:

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...&-22959395.pdf

Note that on page 1, it shows the parts listed. Also note that the driveshaft bolts and nuts are mislabeled in these instructions (backwards). I have them correct in my description above.

Also note that at the time of me doing this swap...GM has a backorder on the 11611335 bolts and no estimated time to replace. After a ton of aggravating searching, I discovered that the 11611336 bolts can also be used out back to connect the DS to the diff as well. So just use these if you can't get the 335 bolts.

Some other useful tips:

You'll need a 32mm socket to get the SS axle nuts off
You'll need a 36mm socket to get the ZL1 axles torqued on
You'll need a 30mm socket to get the trans flange bolt off/on
When you take the trans flange bolt off, watch the orientation of the washer that comes off behind it. It is a concave washer.
Torque spec for the trans flange nut is 100 ft lbs. This is not stated in the instructions.
Once the trans flange nut is removed, you can get a rubber mallet and bang it off.
You can remove and reinstall the differentials by only removing the passenger side knuckle assembly. Leave the driver's side all assembled. Then drop the diff and pull it out towards the passenger side and the driver's side axle will come out. But its tight, and you need to be careful or you may bend you axles or rip a boot. But this will save you some time. To reinstall the ZL1 diff, its a bit harder because its so much bigger. But you put the axle into the diff first, then angle the diff and slide the axle up into place will you lift and rotate the diff. Of course...the safe way to avoid all this is to disassemble the driver's side knuckle too. But this can save you a bit of time if you have some help.
I used a floor jack to help get the diff in and out.

Hope that helps someone!!!!

11-15-2016, 02:04 PM	#1
cc-rider Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MN Posts: 1,179	How to piece together a ZL1 differential swap - lessons learned from the battle Just finished my ZL1 diff swap. Did a lot of reading on a lot of different threads to try and figure out how to piece it together using used parts. Kind of wish there was a definitive thread laying out what is needed. So I guess that's what I'm hoping to do here. First, you need the obvious: Differential. You can get the 3.73 manual...or the 3.23 auto. Only difference is the gear ratio inside. Everything else (dimensional) is identical. Axles. You can use the ZL1 axles. Or go aftermarket. Note that the aftermarket axles designed for SS diffs will not work with the ZL1 diff. Driveshaft. Again, you can go with the ZL1 driveshaft or aftermarket one pieces. This is where you need buy the right one for weather you are hooking up to an auto or a manual on the trans end. They are different lengths. In addition to the diff/axles/driveshaft....you'll also need the following: Trans flange (GM part# 22960154) Qty 1 (note that you can get away with using the stock SS trans flange if you go with an aftermarket driveshaft. Just make sure you tell them to build it to hook up to an SS trans flange on the trans end...and a ZL1 diff flange on the other end) Axle Nuts (GM part# 11611234) Qty 2 Axle Washers (GM part# 11611965) Qty 2 Driveshaft to Trans Flange Bolts (GM part# 11611336) Qty 3 Driveshaft to Trans Flange Nuts (GM part# 11611365) Qty 3 Driveshaft to Diff Bolts (GM part# 11611335) Qty 3 Differential cooler plugs (GM part# 22960153) Qty 2 (this plugs off the cooler lines on the bottom of the diff. The ZL1 has a diff cooler. The SS doesn't) Here is a link to the GM instructions on how to do the swap: http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...&-22959395.pdf Note that on page 1, it shows the parts listed. Also note that the driveshaft bolts and nuts are mislabeled in these instructions (backwards). I have them correct in my description above. Also note that at the time of me doing this swap...GM has a backorder on the 11611335 bolts and no estimated time to replace. After a ton of aggravating searching, I discovered that the 11611336 bolts can also be used out back to connect the DS to the diff as well. So just use these if you can't get the 335 bolts. Some other useful tips: You'll need a 32mm socket to get the SS axle nuts off You'll need a 36mm socket to get the ZL1 axles torqued on You'll need a 30mm socket to get the trans flange bolt off/on When you take the trans flange bolt off, watch the orientation of the washer that comes off behind it. It is a concave washer. Torque spec for the trans flange nut is 100 ft lbs. This is not stated in the instructions. Once the trans flange nut is removed, you can get a rubber mallet and bang it off. You can remove and reinstall the differentials by only removing the passenger side knuckle assembly. Leave the driver's side all assembled. Then drop the diff and pull it out towards the passenger side and the driver's side axle will come out. But its tight, and you need to be careful or you may bend you axles or rip a boot. But this will save you some time. To reinstall the ZL1 diff, its a bit harder because its so much bigger. But you put the axle into the diff first, then angle the diff and slide the axle up into place will you lift and rotate the diff. Of course...the safe way to avoid all this is to disassemble the driver's side knuckle too. But this can save you a bit of time if you have some help. I used a floor jack to help get the diff in and out. Hope that helps someone!!!! Last edited by cc-rider; 09-21-2017 at 09:28 PM.