11" is three whole inches wider than what came on the front of your car stock, and you can only push so much of that to the back side. Once the wheel's inboard flange gets within maybe 3mm of the strut, whatever is left from that 3" increase has to go on the outside. But the tire sidewall bulge may require more than 3mm wheel clearance, or you may become limited on tire size to something less than 305/xx.
If you make enough careful measurements for the wheels and tires that you do have, it is possible to get a pretty good idea how much more width can be added on the inside. Outside is simpler. When dropping down in wheel diameter, give yourself a little extra room, because the struts slope outward as they drop down closer to the axle. A 15° strut angle "steals" a little over 1/8" from your measured strut clearance at the wheel, going from 20" wheels down to 19's. Eighth-inches matter.
Ultimately it comes down to how serious you're going to be about things like steering response and precision vs the currently popular "flushness" look. My own personal take on a little 'poke' is that those who know what transient handling is and that you're chasing it will understand, and that the opinions of those who don't shouldn't matter. You yourself know from the get-go that it's all about function and performance.
Over the years, all of the cars that I seriously modified eventually ended up with front wheels at least 2.5" wider than what they came with stock, and at least 1.5" wider than the widest option ever factory-fitted to the same basic chassis. At this point, I think if I limited my choices for the really serious driving to no wider than "flush", I'd be leaving too much on the table. Note that this didn't rub . . . 18x11 with 285/35 MPSS.
Every last bit of inside room is being used (about 0.043" clearances)
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