If you look on
page 3 of this thread I posted a picture of the WRONG driver on the correct seal.
Notice the lip on the seal... On the correct driver that seal lip will go into a recessed portion of the driver.
Also the driver tool's lip does not allow you to over "drive" the seal. It will stop it and prevent the metal from collapsing.
Look at that picture and imagine using the flat drivers that you have in your kit.
It may be that you can find the correct diameter of PVC pipe to improvise.
The correct driver also has an inner support that keeps everything centered and puts tension on the inner part of the seal. That little bit of tension helps keep the spring on the seal while driving.
I am not saying it can't be done without the tool... I, and many others have done it. But I have also messed up a seal. My dealer does not have them in stock, so if you mess one up you are waiting on UPS.
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2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs
Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.)
